Himalayas: Manali & Kaza -  spiritual respite amid the eternal snow peaks of Northern India's Himalayan wilderness

SHARMILA MELISSA YOGALINGAM enjoys spiritual respite amid the eternal snow peaks surrounding Manali and Kaza in Northern India's Himalayan wilderness.

With its long stretches of rocky roads and vast barren plateaus studded with rivers and valleys, dominated by snow-capped mountains, it is little wonder the landlocked trans-Himalayan cold-desert state of Himachal Pradesh is lauded as Deva Bhumi - the land of gods.
     The perfect sanctuary for ascetics and sages, with its plethora of temples, Himachal Pradesh promises respite and tranquility for those wishing to reconnect with their inner spirit.

Manali
Manali's dry land and jagged snow peaks create a stark environment. Presently a more favourable snow destination to the previously popular and now war-torn Kashmir, this elegant town sees plenty of holidaymakers during peak season and is a pivotal starting point for Himalayan adventures.
SEE Visit historic buildings In Old Manali and people watch. To experience life in this sleepy town, take your time browsing in niche bazaars or sip a traditional chai tea in a quaint cafe. Visit a temple dedicated to Manu, a sage believed to have created the human race in this part of the world.
     Not too far away, you'll find Dhungri Village with its fascinating Deodar forest and temples. Villagers can often be seen herding sheep or drawing water from the village well. While you're there, make sure you visit Gadhan Thekchhokling Gompa, a modern monastery conspicuous due to its striking yellow pagoda roof.
EAT Bob Dylan's Cafe - also known as Roasted and Toasted - is a must-visit and serves delicious cookies and sandwiches. The cafe also has a comfortable movie theatre, where you can watch your choice from more than 100 movie titles for free as you dine. And yes, they do play Bob Dylan music!
     Mayur Restaurant (Mission Road) serves delicious Indian dishes such as Tandoori chicken and stuffed kulcha, while The Lazy Dog (Manu Temple Road, Old Manali) is popular for its international cuisine. If you're craving Mediterranean or Italian food, head to Il Forno (Hadimba Road, Dhungr) for delectable soups, pastas and pizzas.
STAY
$ Try Manu Allaya Hotel (Sunny Side, Chadiyari, Tel: 91 1902 252 235, ext 38), Honeymoon Inn Manali (Left Bank, Aleo Manali, Tel: 91 1902 253 234/253 235/ 253 236) and Holiday Inn Manali (Prini, Manali Naggar Highway, Tel: 91 1902 251 777).
$$ Manali's only four-star hotel, Manali Heights (Log Hut Area, Tel: 91 1902 252 621/252 061), has rooms with stunning views of snow-capped mountains and grey wastelands. GETTING THERE
Fly Jet Airways (www.jetairways.com), Air India (home.airindia.in) or Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeair.com) from Singapore to Delhi, then board Kingfisher Airlines (www.flykingfisher.com) or Air India (domestic) for an hour's travel to Bhuntar airport, Kullu - two hours drive from Manali.

Kaza
The capital of Spiti Valley, Kaza is bound by the valleys of Kullu and Lahaul, with the sprawling magnificence of the Himalayas serving as a resplendent backdrop. Hidden from the world for half of the year because of thick impenetrable snow, Kaza emerges during the warmer months from April to October.
     This alluring town is made up of sheets of ashen tundra plateau, sporadically scattered with tiny white-washed mud huts.
SEE Himalayan Buddhist monasteries abound in this mountainous region bordering Tibet. At an altitude of more than 4,000 metres lies the whitewashed Ki Gompa, where you can find traditional murals and ancient Buddhist texts. Puja (morning prayers) is held daily at 7am and tourists are welcome to join
this spiritual offering. 
     Kibber Gompa is located at 4,200 metres in one of the most remote and desolate places in Kaza - only accessible by a stretch of wide plain. An hour's drive from Kaza lies the city of Dhankar, where the Dhankar Monastery appears almost tethered to the edge of the cliffs keeping watch over the Spiti Valley. Downhill from Dhankar Gompa is a humble museum, housing devotional objects and costumes from a bygone era. Another hour and-a-half away is Tabo Gompa, one of the most honoured and oldest sacred monasteries in the region. Be intrigued by the intricate stuccos and detailed wall paintings. There are also nine temples, 23 chortens and numerous caves worthy of exploration within this monastery.
EAT As there aren't many restaurants in Kaza, opt for the inclusion of a meal plan with your hotel stay. To dine out on traditional dishes, try Layul and Third Eye - both in Old Town Kaza - or Kyoma, situated opposite Kaza's only bus stop.
STAY
$ Mahabauda Guest House (Spiti Valley, Tel: 91 1906 222 232) and Hill View Guest House (Spiti Valley, Tel: 91 1906 222 331) are budget options with communal bathrooms. For something more personal, enjoy a truly local experience at Shambala Home Stay (Tel: 91 94182 00183, www.shambhalahomestayspiti.com).
$$ Mid-priced rooms can be found at Snow Lion Hotel (Spiti Valley, Tel: 91 1906 222 525) and HPTDC Tourist Lodge (Spiti Valley, Tel: 91 1906 222 566).
$$$ The most luxurious accommodation in Kaza is Banjara Camp Kaza (Tel: 91 1906 222 236, www.banjaracamps.com).
GETTING THERE Kaza is only accessible by road and is an eight to 10-hour drive by car or taxi from Manali.

Posted Apr 2011