Malaysia has much to offer the adventurous traveller in search of a new thrill. Here, DAVID BOWDEN explores Malaysia's largest national park - Taman Negara - and treks through Sabah's natural treasures.
Ancient rainforest
The riverboat journey to Taman Negara national park headquarters at Kuala Tahan is - for some - as exciting as discovering the rainforest itself. But be prepared, this part of your journey can take up to three hours, depending on the volume of the water flowing down the river.
While you'll find yourself in one of the most isolated parts of the peninsula, this area is in fact one of the world's most accessible rainforests. It's also one of the most pristine, with much as it was 130 million years ago.
Taman Negara was established as a protected area in 1939 and now offers adventurous travellers an experience comparable with any of the world's rainforests. At 4,343 square kilometres, Taman Negara is by far the largest national park in Peninsula Malaysia and is studded with its highest peak, Mount Tahan at 2,187 metres above sea level. If you're an ultra-keen climber or trekker, the arduous nine-day return climb to the summit of Mount Tahan is a worthwhile challenge.
TO DO Taman Negara contains an astounding 10,000 flowering plants, 675 birds, 150,000 insects, 25,000 invertebrates, 270 reptiles, 250 freshwater fish and 200 mammals. But the animals within the rainforest know their habitat well, so sightings of most species are rare. Improve your chances by bringing along a good pair of field binoculars and spend some quiet time hiding in an isolated area.
STAY There's a range of accommodation options near the park from true wilderness, to comfortable resort-styled facilities adjacent to the park headquarters. Most visitors stay at the smaller resorts, guesthouses and home-stays near the park entrance at Kuala Tahan. Staying in a nearby Malay village is the best way to appreciate the hospitality of the locals. Visit www.tamannegara.org for options. The facilities at the 110-room Mutiara Taman Negara Resort (www.mutiarahotels.com) perched above the junction of the Tembeling and Tahan Rivers are good, considering the isolated location.
Land Below The Wind
As Sabah is located on the northern part of Borneo below the typhoon belt, it's referred to as the Land Below the Wind. This doesn't mean this part of East Malaysia isn't affected by monsoon rains, but even when the wind blows hardest, adventure remains possible.
KK itself is a reasonably sophisticated city with an international airport, several waterfront resorts, lively nightlife and some smart restaurants - primarily focused on seafood. If you're there on a weekend, don't miss the Sunday morning market along Gaya Street.
Sabah's other leading land-based natural areas include Kinabalu Park, Tabin Wildlife Reserve, Poring Hot Springs and several wildlife hot-spots around Sandakan.
As part of Borneo, the world's third-largest island, Sabah is just one area of this mystical but enchanting island, which has long attracted adventurous travellers. People visit not only to appreciate the unique wildlife and unusual plants, but also the cultural diversity of its 32 ethnic groups, some of whom were traditionally head-hunters.
TO DO To fully appreciate Sabah's leading natural attractions, intrepid travellers should fly to Sandakan and explore the surrounding district. The small village of Sukau is located adjacent to the 27,000- hectare Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary, which is probably one of the best places in Malaysia to encounter wildlife.
Get a glimpse of species rarely seen elsewhere. Topping the billing is the Proboscis monkey, but an impressive supporting cast includes the Flying Lemur, Slow Loris, Tarsier, Borneo Pygmy Elephant, Silver-leaf Langur, Long-tailed Macaque and Orang Utan.
Small boats of camera-wielding animal lovers head off along the Kinabatangan and adjoining Menanggul rivers every afternoon. Proboscis monkeys are what most visitors come to see. As they're orange in colour, they can be easily sighted amongst the river foliage. Named for the huge pendulous red noses of the adult males, Proboscis monkeys are also known as Long-nosed monkeys and are only found in Borneo, mostly amongst mangrove forests. With numbers sadly declining they're classified as endangered.
Vigilant wildlife fans may also spot the Orang Utan, Silver-leaf Langur and the ever-active Long-tailed macaque, feeding high up in the rainforest. But if it's a bird you're wishing to see, you'll have to be quick - most are well camouflaged. One exception is the Blue-capped Kingfisher with its brilliant azure blue wings, often spotted darting amongst low branches.
Back in Sandakan, Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre and the Rainforest Discovery Centre are essential stops. Sepilok is Sandakan's biggest attraction and is accessible from KK as a day-trip. Sepilok's main function is to facilitate the education of orphaned Orang Utans, so they can survive in the rainforest upon eventual release after several years of attending "school".
Feeding time is 10am and 3pm every day. Rangers have set up feeding stations within the rainforest, where excellent observation areas ensure you get a good look and can photograph the proceedings. Children typically love this unique opportunity to get close to these fascinating animals in their natural habitat.
Rainforest Discovery Centre is another increasingly popular area, particularly because of the recent opening of an elaborate elevated rainforest canopy walkway. The Centre is located immediately adjacent to Sepilok, so visit both attractions at the same time. This massive canopy walk is ideal for avid bird-watchers; twitchers can expect to spot some of the 624 bird species that call Borneo home. While bird-watching may not be for everyone, a good guide can add to the excitement by divulging the surprisingly fascinating habits of various avian species, 54 of which can only be seen in Borneo.
EAT Sandakan's English Tea House and Restaurant (www.englishteahouse.org) may seem out of place in the wilds of Sabah, but after a day's trekking it's definitely a welcome sight. While it's exciting to discover Sabah's natural attractions, it's also enjoyable to celebrate the achievement of your adventures with an about-face return to civilisation.
Unashamedly British, right down to the morning and afternoon Devonshire teas and croquet on the lawn, the English Tea House also serves pre-dinner drinks of Pimm's and lemonade and bangers 'n' mash. With its panoramic views of Sandakan Harbour, it's a delightful setting for pre or post-excursion refreshment.
STAY Sandakan offers various accommodation options, from the three-star comfort of the Swiss-Inn Waterfront Sandakan (www.swissgarden.com), to a comprehensive choice of backpacker and B&B properties. In the Kinabatangan region, stay at Proboscis Lodge (www.proboscislodge.com). While in Kota Kinabalu, Le Méridien (www.starwoodhotels.com) offers some of the city's finest accommodation.
While in Sandakan, take time out to visit the Sandakan War Memorial and pay your respects to World War II soldiers and prisoners of war, who marched 260 kilometres from Sandakan inland to Ranau - the site of another impressive memorial.
Widely considered to be the single worst atrocity suffered by Australian servicemen during World War II, the march resulted in the deaths of more than 3,600 Indonesian civilians enslaved as labourers and 2,400 British and Australian allied prisoners of war. Only six Australians survived - because they managed to escape.
Jungle travel info
GETTING THERE Kuala Tembeling, the ferry terminal for sampans into Taman Negara, is a four-hour drive from Kuala Lumpur. To Kota Kinabalu, the gateway to Sabah, SilkAir (www.silkair.com) and Air Asia (www.airasia.com) fly direct, while Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com) flies via Kuala Lumpur.
CONTACTS
Tourism Malaysia (www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my)
Sabah Tourism (www.sabah tourism.com)
GUIDES While it's not impossible to discover wild Malaysia independently, Malaysia's rainforests aren't for the inexperienced or ill-equipped to explore alone. Opting for a guide or organised tour is best. Asian Overland Services (www.asianoverland.com.my) offers organised tours to Taman Negara and a variety of destinations in Sabah.
If you prefer to remain independent, a useful pocket-sized reference for Taman Negara is the Globetrotters Guide to Taman Negara published by New Holland, UK and available in most bookshops throughout Asia.
TOURS Singapore travel agencies experienced in offering group or personalised itineraries and travel arrangements to Taman Negara and Sabah include Country Holidays (www.countryholidays.com.sg), Holiday Tours (www.holidaytours-sin.com), Jetabout Holidays (www.jetabout.com.sg) and Atrium Eco Travel (www.atriumecotravel.com).
Posted Mar 2011
