Bhutan: The Land of the Thunder Dragon & Asia's final Shangri-La

SHARMILA MELISSA YOGALINGAM visits Bhutan, Asia's final frontier - a land of unspoilt beauty insulated from the outside world until the 60s, making access tricky but the rewards worthwhile.

The Land of the Thunder Dragon - as Bhutan (www.tourism.gov.bt) is known - is a landlocked Himalayan kingdom, with India and the People's Republic of China as neighbours. One of the most isolated nations in the world, Bhutan lives up to its reputation as the world's last Shangri-La, with vivid and breathtaking scenery, refreshing ecology and an inherent uniqueness. This devout Buddhist country has been proclaimed the "Happiest Country on Earth", due to the warm, fun-loving, genuine and joyous nature of its inhabitants, who can be seen wearing a constant smile and are known for their singing and dancing, prolific use of stone pitching for landscaping and love of archery - the national sport.
      Travelling to Bhutan is expensive. You need to budget US$200 a day just for your car, driver and a tour guide, but immersing yourself in the charm of this almost medieval kingdom is well worth the investment.

Paro
Paro is home to Bhutan's only international airport, a picturesque airstrip set in a valley amidst mountains. The stunning natural environment immediately transports you to another time.
TO DO The town temple Druk Choeding houses a Jampa (Buddha in a seated position) statue and the famous Paro Dzong, a very impressive dzong (temple) and familiar backdrop in the 90s Hollywood movie Little Buddha. Chhoeten Lhakhang (a tower with a chapel upstairs) is also worth visiting, as is Ugyen Pelri palace, the official residence of the Queen Mother. Although closed to the public, you can still admire the palace's architecture, recognised as the best in the country. Dumtse Lhakhang, with its three levels representing hell, heaven and earth, is a chorten (stupa) boasting stunning murals, but be sure to make prior arrangements with your tour guide if you're interested in a visit.
Taktshang Goemba (Tiger's Nest) is one of the most famous and most photographed monasteries in Bhutan. Almost hanging off a cliff in the Paro Valley, it's not easily accessible. Expect a three-hour trek up mountainous steps flanked by local pilgrims and be extremely careful when you reach the last few metres, which fall into a flight of very steep stairs, without any handrails. Another pair of steep steps takes you up to the monastery. At this point, you'll be nearly 3,000 metres above sea level where the air is thinner, so you may become easily disoriented. If you're not feeling confident of venturing any further, stop here for a few snapshots. This is the exact spot where the UK's Prince Charles painted a watercolour of the monastery.
STAY
$$$ Indulge yourself by staying at Uma Paro (www.uma.paro.como.bz) or Amankora Paro (www.amanresorts.com).
$$ Mid-range hotels include Zhiwa Ling (www.zhiwaling.com) and Gangtey Palace (www.gangteypalace.net).

Thimpu
Bhutan's capital is located 53 kilometres from Paro and is easily accessible by car, taxi or bus. The journey is half the fun, providing a slew of sights and landscapes.
TO DO Changangkha Lhakhang temple and monastery resembles a fortress. Stop off and spin the enormous prayer wheel for good luck. Another worthwhile stop is the Folk Heritage Museum, which provides an interesting historical background of Bhutan and an insight into how the Bhutanese of today live in rural communities. For awe-inspiring views, travel on by car to Gaden Lam and as you reach the end look for Dechen Phodrang - a monastic school and dzong. You'll also find another temple, Drubthob Goemba, close by.
      The Takin, a goat-antelope cross, is Bhutan's national animal and can be found at Motithang Takin Preserve. Visit early in the morning during feeding time. Give advance notice and you'll be treated to an hour-long Bhutanese dance performance by the Royal Dance Troupe from the Royal Academy of Performing Arts. The National Memorial chorten (stupa) showcases religious paintings and statues, while a visit to the Trashi Chhoe Dzong monastery shouldn't be missed. Don't forget to stop by Zangto Pelri Lhakhang, a private chapel resembling a celestial abode. And if you're looking to shop, try the Kuendeyling Bazaam where you can pick up handicrafts and fabrics unique to Bhutan and put your bargaining skills to good use!
STAY
$$$ Five-star accommodation includes Amankora Thimpu (www.amanresorts.com) and Taj Tashi (www.tajhotels.com).
$$ For mid-range options try Dewachen Hotel (www.dewachenhotel.com) or Druk Hotel Thimphu (www.drukhotels.com).

Jakar
For a truly authentic Bhutanese experience head into the middle of the country to
off-the-tourist-track town of Jakar.
TO DO Walk along a stone path to Jakar Dzong, a temple perched on a hill overlooking the Chokor Valley offering a bird's eye view of stunning surroundings. Also on a hill is Namkhe Nyingpo Goemba, a monastery hosting 300 resident monks. Visit between 4:30pm and 6pm to witness a dramatic verbal debate among the monks, as they discuss fervently religion and philosophy. Later, visit the Swiss Farm to buy Bhutan's local brew - Red Panda beer - and savour fresh cheese. Round off your trip with a visit to Wangdichholing palace to see novice monks go about their daily prayers and life.
STAY
$$$ Amankora Bumthang (www.amanresorts.com) promises a luxury stay.
$$ Jakar Village Lodge (Jakar Village, Bumthang, Bhutan, Tel:+975 3 631242)
and Swiss Guest House (Kharsumphe, Bumthang, Bhutan, Tel:+975 3 631145)
are comfortable.
GETTING THERE The Gari Singye Express has Coasters leaving for Jakar from Thimpu daily (except Mondays) at 5:30am.

Planning your trip to Bhutan
As Bhutan is so isolated, pre-travel arrangements are necessary.

WHEN TO GO Visit during autumn (September to late November) and spring (March to May). Autumn is the better option as the high mountain peaks are unobstructed by cloud, but travelling during spring will allow you to enjoy the nature. During winter (December to February) the snow makes travelling difficult and summer (June to August) is monsoon season. 
GETTING THERE Druk Air (www.drukair.com.bt) is the only airline flying to Paro. Connect from Delhi or Bangkok.
Note: Because Bhutan is a mountainous area and the airport lies deep in a valley, flights can be cancelled if conditions are foggy.
SPEND Bhutan does not have ATM machines and very few places accept credit cards. Carry Bhutanese currency (Ngultrum) or US dollars. Traveller's cheques such as American Express, Visa, Citibank, Thomas Cook or Barclays can be cashed at banks and hotels.
PASSPORT & VISA Your passport should have six-month validity for travel before expiry. Be careful not to lose it while you're in Bhutan, as there's nowhere to apply for a replacement. Everyone needs a visa to enter Bhutan.
     Visas are only issued when you land in Paro and Druk Air will not allow you to board the aircraft until they receive clearance from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Thimpu. So before you leave Singapore, apply for a visa through a Bhutanese tour operator or a Singapore travel agent with connections to a Bhutanese tour operator. Do this even if you're travelling on your own.
     Your visa information and approval will be forwarded to your tour operator and to Druk Air, allowing you to board the plane. Your arrival details will be stamped into your passport when you arrive at Paro following which you will have to travel five kilometres from the airport to a government office where, upon presentation of your passport, two photos and US$20, your visa will be issued.
EAT It's most convenient and practical to have your meals at hotel restaurants. Bhutanese food consists of rice and extremely hot curries - the Bhutanese people love their spices and even eat raw chillies!
TOUR Given the logistics of travelling to Bhutan, it's best to contact a tour company. Well-known tour guides include Alpine Bhutan Travel (www.alpine-bhutan.com), Bhutan Visit (www.bhutanvisit.com), X-trekkers (www.x-trekkers.com), Oriole Travels & Tours (Email: oriole@samart.co.th), Peregrine Adventures (www.peregrine.net.au) and World Expeditions (www.worldexpeditions.com.au).
In Singapore, travel agencies familiar with organising trips to Bhutan include Country Holidays (www.countryholidays.com.sg), Holiday Tours (www.holidaytours-sin.com) and Atrium Eco Travel (www.atriumecotravel.com).  

Posted Jan 2011