& hidden retreats
Resident Bali expat Kayti Denham recommends escaping popular haunts for lesser-known villages on the island's west coast. Ease into a taste of the real Bali, minutes from attractions - yet a world away from hordes of tourists.
As Bali gains a greater share of the Asian and Australian tourism market, its sophistication and service standards continue to grow. Indeed, an expanded private villa market and internationally-accredited training services have resulted in a new level of hospitality on the island, further cementing the international appeal of this tropical paradise. Kuta's allure may have faded somewhat and the international book-to-screen hit, Eat, Pray, Love, shone a popularist Hollywood light on Ubud, but the island's luscious natural environment, mystical ceremonies and welcoming people have not lost their glow. And it's the hidden pockets along Bali's west coast which are now tempting the most discerning of travellers.
If you're looking for a luxurious break at an affordable price in stunning surrounds, a trip to Bali's west coast is an absolute must. From Seminyak and Pettienget to Batu Belig and Canggu, following the coastline from the starting point of the renowned social den of KuDeTa (www.kudeta.net) almost all the way up to the peaceful surfing break of Medewi, you'll come across some of Bali's newest and most stunningly-appointed villas, exquisite spas and gourmand-worthy restaurants.
The appeal of a slightly out-of-town destination is two-fold: you'll find yourself close to nature at every turn, plus staying off the beaten track can result in savings, especially in high season. Do check our recommendations for their seasonal rate variations to get the best of Bali for your buck and enjoy the independent feel of a west Bali vacation. Be prepared to explore, discover and be delighted.
Surfing and horse riding schools are popular activities in this area. Bali Horse Riding(www.balibagus.com/adventures/balihorseriding) at Saba Bay takes you along a deserted stretch of coastline and through traditional Balinese villages. This activity is suitable for the inexperienced rider and insurance is included. If horses are really your "thing" make your way to Umalas Equestrian Resort (www.balionhorse.com), a tropical boutique-style resort complete with horses. Chukka fans should visit the Polo Club in Ye Ganga, where you can practise beach polo atop a Bali Island horse.
To wake up to the sound of rolling waves, check into the Chillhouse (www.chillhouse.at) in Canggu. Hosts Sabina and Alex create total surf-styled adventures for all abilities and the luxury accommodation includes all amenities - private gardens, pools, spa and a "fresh food" restaurant. To get right back to nature, book the Gerry Lopez Treehouse loft - a three-storey surf pad high up in the trees. Surfing lessons for the "grommet" (a beginner) are plentiful along the safe surf breaks of Legian and Kuta, where you'll also find the best surf schools offering international-standard instruction out on the water from sunup to sundown. Amongst the best is the Quicksilver Surf School (www.quiksilversurfschoolbali.com) where you can learn from World Champion surfing legend Cheyne Horan.
Art and display galleries are opening all across Canggu. While you won't find the same density of boutiques as in Seminyak, it is worth keeping your eyes open as you travel about. Stop at the radical skate shop at the corner of the Canggu turnoff, the rattan workshops along Banjar Semer and the newly-opened Dues ex Machina (www.deusbaliblog.co.id) - a complex on Jalan Batu Mejan showcasing art exhibitions, film nights and live bands.
Eat
West coast dining options are amongst the best on the island. So much so, Nuri of Naughty Nuri's Warung (www.naughty-nuris.com) in Ubud opened her second restaurant here - serving wicked cocktails and a diverse family menu to her fans from the south. Sarong (www.sarongbali.com) in Pettitenget offers an authentic Asian menu in a beautiful almost baroque-style setting with deep-cushioned sofas, chandeliers and one of the best wine lists in Bali.
Hotel Tugu (www.tuguhotels.com) has a grand dining room where you can order traditional dishes of the archipelago. Time your visit with a Tugu evening musical event - ranging from classical to contemporary, they're always a huge success. Biku (www.bikubali.com), housed in a traditional Joglo nearby, has a café-style menu and is famous for its afternoon high teas and lazy Sunday afternoons accompanied by authentic 1940s Javanese music. Other café-style options include Green Ginger Noodle House (46 Jalan Pantai Brawa) in Canggu for a taste of sweet, aromatic Thai food and the ever-popular Echo Beach Cafe on Echo Beach, renowned for its relaxed, casual ambience and barbecued seafood menu.
Stay
The abundance of villas in this area allows you to choose the place to suit you, from a tropical cabana or Balinese bungalow, to the exquisite luxury of an ultra-modern villa. Villa Barbar (http://balivillababar.com) is one such option - a stunning property on absolute and private beachfront, with a rambling, spacious layout perfect for extended family and group vacations. Here you can escape the world and live totally secluded, yet are totally catered to.
If you prefer the ambience of something a little more Balinese, but still private, consider Villa Serenity (www.balivillaserenity.com) in Batu Bolong, Canggu. This pleasant villa complex has a real family feel to it, with a pretty garden, swimming pool for games or relaxation and a warm inviting vibe.
Bali Dream Villas (www.balidreamvillas.com) is home to three and four-bedroom villas Kedidi and Kakatua - a slice of paradise nestled within lush tropical greenery in Canggu just minutes walk from Sunset Beach and next door to Hotel Tugu (www.tuguhotels.com). Exuding tropical ambience, both villas are equipped with modern conveniences combined with discrete luxuries including airport transfers, a chauffeur-driven car, concierge service and sports facilities - such as tennis and gym at nearby family-friendly Canggu Club. Satiate your appetite with Balinese and international cuisine prepared by your own chef, or venture out to quaint beachfront dining spots and watch the sun set. Thoughtful touches for parents and young travellers include extensive children's equipment, babysitting services and an optional pool fence. With rates starting from just US$289 per night per villa, don't miss this unique and affordable Bali holiday experience.
Exclusive Kemah Tinggi (www.kemahtinggi.com) is one of the LUXE Guide's top picks. With a reputation for stylish privacy, five-star luxury and child-friendly design, four stunning bedrooms, charming staff and idyllic rice-field and ocean views tick every box, whilst the delicious meals and cocktails, Molton Brown amenities, spa treatments, pool fence, chauffeured car and nearby gym/tennis facilities pile on the wow factor.
Villa management companies such as Exotic Hideaways (www.exotic-hideaways.com) and Exotiq Villa Rentals (www.exotiqvillaholidays.com) also have a wide range of quality private villas on their books. Exotic Hideaways recommends Villa Sankara (www.villasankara.com) - an exclusive five bedroom beachfront villa perfectly situated on the picturesque Berawa Beach in Canggu, known for its surfing breaks. Facilities include unlimited WiFi, telephone, satellite television, a Bose indoor and outdoor sound system, a modern fully-equipped kitchen and dedicated full-time service staff ready to ensure a memorable stay.
Further south, Villa Pantai Biru (www.villapantaibiru.com)
- like its prestigious neighbours The Bali Beach House, Legian Suites and KuDeTa is one of the only beachfront villas in Seminyak. Expect five ocean-view bedrooms and suites and 11 dedicated staff dishing up superb cuisine and pampering experiences. Enjoy free breakfast, a mineral water pool, WiFi and airport transfers. Depending on the season, prices are as low as US$595 per day and discounts are offered to Singapore-based expats.
Karang Kembar Estate (www.bali-karangkembarestate.com) overlooks the Indian Ocean and provides breathtaking views. 30 minutes from the airport this chic, understated villa offers WiFi, Bose stereos and iPod docking stations in all bedroom suites, a 21-metre swimming pool, private beach house, chauffeured car and a team of discrete staff - including two chefs to take care of your every wish. Perfect for family holidays, Karang Kembar Estate sleeps eight adults and two children.
Posted Dec 2010
