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Value-for-money old & new world wines: France & New Zealand

This yuletide, VINCENT SOH suggests impressing guests with lesser-known wines. Here, he seeks the recommendations of wine importers, Frenchman Francois Bouteille and Kiwi-native Sianne Dixon-Hall, pitting the old world against the new in a festive battle of the grape.

The official start of Christmas and New Year festivities is typically heralded by the popping of a Champagne cork or two. Of course anyone can entertain with popular labels, but there is a certain elegance added to a celebration laced by a careful selection of rare, exotic or perhaps lesser-known wines to heighten the occasion. From the revered "old world" wines of France, to the understated "new world" labels of New Zealand - here are some suggestions sure to dazzle even the most discerning of wine connoisseurs.

Champagnes
French Gardet & Co Champagne Brut ($61)
Ripe and mature, this Brut is a celebrated vintage of great complexity, marrying three different grapes - the Montagne de Reims, Cote des Blancs and the Vallée de la Marne. Boasting a pure gold sheen, it has a long superb finish befitting a champion Champagne and an aftertaste of toast, brioche, almond and nuts with slight marmalade and crispy notes.

New Zealand Forrest Bubbles for Brigid Marlborough ($39.50) Lovingly made by Dr John Forrest for his wife Brigid, this methode traditionelle celebration bubbly is lemon and straw-hued, and when poured into a glass comes alive with tiny bubbles releasing a fresh-scented, biscuity-yeast aroma. It's smooth and creamy yet delicate, with fresh acidity and a lasting finish.

Red & whites
Domaine Montirius (France) AOC Vacqueyras 2004 ($40)
Dressed in a beautiful ruby cloak with russet tones, Le Clos has a reputation for being one of the finest cuvées ever created by this particular producer. Silky, ripe, pure and smooth with just the right amount of acidity, this wine has been aged in concrete vats and has never come into contact with wood. A sip produces mouth notes of dark cherry, blackberry and blackcurrant flavours, as well as trailing sensations of black pepper, spice and liquorice.

Soho White Label (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2009 ($30) A brilliant Central Otago Pinot produced by Grant Taylor - the only winemaker to ever win Best Pinot Noir at the London International Wine Challenge twice! Layered with cherry, violet and chocolate, this velvety drink tastes every bit the award winner.

Cherrier & Fils (France) Sancerre White 2008 ($37) A pure Sauvignon Blanc, this refreshing golden colour wine from the Loire Valley fills the mouth with fruity flavours including apples and Sauvignon grape - imparting summery citrus with a dry, steely touch.

Summerhouse Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand) Marlborough ($30.50) This classic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc delivers exotic pacific fruit and citrus flavours, settling down to a long-lasting delicious finish. It also exudes a scent of ripe gooseberries and green capsicum, with subtle floral notes.

Pick of the bunch
S.C.E.A. Robin LaFugie (France) Saint Émilion Grand Cru 2005 ($42)
This resplendent royal deep purple wine has finely wooded floral and fruity notes. In the mouth it's velvety, soft, round and pleasantly fruity.

Unison Selection 2006 Hawke's Bay ($67) Regarded as one of New Zealand's finest, this wine is a scintillating blend of Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Floral spicy notes combine with rich dark berry fruits and mocha, dancing on a well-integrated oak firm structure with a long finish.

Francois Bouteille
Bouteille, Tel: 9750 2377, www.bouteille.com.sg,
Email: Francois_bouteille@yahoo.fr
For centuries, French wine was hidebound in the notion of terroir - linking wine and grape to specific regions. But a complicated labelling system made it challenging to acquire and taste good wines from the region, creating an opportunity for lesser-known vins to make their début with the help of independent wine retailers. Francois Bouteille, native Parisian, wine expert and owner of Bouteille says, "A good wine needn't cost $300 and the most famous may not be the best." Francois sells fairly-priced vins de pays (country wine) of excellent quality and suggests mid-priced French labels are more than suitable for entertaining.

Sianne Dixon-Hall
Underground Wines, Tel: 8113 1612, www.undergroundwines.com.sg, sianne@undergroundwines.com.sg
Upon moving to the Lion City, Sianne Dixon-Hall, Managing Director of Underground Wines, initially found New Zealand wines to be overpriced and of average quality. She now imports quality New Zealand wines at affordable prices in six and 12 bottle cases which can be mixed. She believes, "Many incredible New Zealand wines receive little attention. People may be unaware that during the long, misty, mellow autumn season, bunches of grapes ripen slowly on temperate New Zealand slopes, developing pleasant acid structure and intense flavours, leading to wines of superb quality at extremely reasonable prices."


Posted Dec 2010
 



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