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ASIA

Asia's secret beaches

Desperate for sunshine, sea and sand, but not so keen on crowds? David Bowden slips into his board shorts, slathers on the sunscreen and discovers Asia's less-populated strips of beach bliss.

As distances diminish and the world of travel opens up to more people, finding a remote destination where you can just kick back and relax seems a perennial quest for those desperate for a peaceful beach break. If long stretches of white sand, swaying coconut palms, clear blue waters and a path less trodden is your idea of heaven, check out these "new" destinations - which have, so far, escaped the perils of mass tourism.

 

Cua Dai, Hoi An, Vietnam

Hoi An is best known as a UNESCO World Heritage Site - due to the historical buildings in this small port, just south of Danang in central Vietnam. It's a contemporary of Melaka and Macau, but better preserved and more charming than both. And just a few kilometres from the old town are untouched beaches, which are slowly being developed and form the southern reaches of the better-known China Beach.

Where 30 kilometres south of Danang. Take a direct flight to Danang with SilkAir (http://www.silkair.com/).

Stay The Victoria Hoi An Resort (Tel: +84 510 927 040, http://www.victoriahotels-asia.com/) is an eclectic mix of Vietnamese, Japanese and French architecture and - in addition to the beach - offers a large pool and spa. Anticipate a more Mediterranean ambience than contemporary Asian, but the facilities are very good.

Eat Try banh xeo - a crispy Vietnamese pancake with pork, shrimp and bean sprouts. For delicious crab dishes, try restaurant Quan Nhan - situated along the beach from the resort.

 

Koh Chang, Thailand

Koh Chang - koh meaning island in Thai - has been around forever, but tourists are only just starting to recognise this area of Thailand. With the country's ambition to move onto the world tourism stage, seaside resort development has been relentless over the past few decades. First there was Pattaya, then Phuket, Koh Samui, Koh Phi Phi and Hua Hin. All have developed rapidly and some are now over-developed, so it's only natural for solitude-seekers to explore "new" destinations such as Koh Chang, Koh Lanta and Koh Hai. Hat Sai Kaow - the main beach on Koh Chang - has quickly transformed from rows of small, thatched bungalows to a line of hotels in just a matter of years. But being the kingdom's second largest island at 429 square kilometres, there are plenty of places in which to escape. Koh Chang's best beaches can be found on the island's western side, with the other main beaches being Khlang Phrao, Kai Bae and Tha Nam. The interior of the island is mostly forest and there are several picturesque waterfalls. Eco adventures are possible, in addition to beachside lazing. If you're active, you'll appreciate Koh Chang's dive opportunities, jungle treks, trips upstream to see fireflies in mangrove forests, waterfalls and fruit farm excursions.

Where From Trat - 300 kilometres and a five-hour drive east of Bangkok - Koh Chang is accessible by a 20 kilometres boat ride southwest from Laem Ngop. Fly to Bangkok with Tiger Airways (http://www.tigerairways.com/), Singapore Airlines (http://www.singaporeair.com/), JetStar (http://www.jetstar.com.sg/) or Thai Airways (http://www.thaiair.com/) and then travel on to Trat with Bangkok Airways, who fly there twice daily. Or catch a bus!

Stay Aiyapura Resort and Spa (Tel: +66 39 555 111, http://www.aiyapura.com/) is the most developed luxury resort on the island and offers excellent accommodation, satellite TV plus entertainment systems and private terraces in each room. Dusit Princess, Koh Chang (http://www.dusit.com/) opens in late 2007 and is currently offering a range of value-added packages to celebrate its soft opening.

Eat Aiyapura Resort and Spa serves Thai food, but its signature outlet - Vimarm Restaurant - is devoted to Mediterranean cuisine.

 

Koh Hai, Thailand

The harder a place is to access, the greater the privacy. Koh Hai - otherwise known as Koh Ngai - is located off Trang in southwest Thailand. This picturesque island is miles from the nearest airport and there are just a few resorts to be found here, so this destination will only appeal to dedicated travellers prepared to invest hard travelling yards to get there. Diving is the obvious attraction, although Koh Hai is also the perfect chill-out, do-nothing destination. Emerald Cave on the adjoining island of Koh Muk is worth visiting, as it requires water access via a small sea cave. Koh Hai's forested crater-like interior and small beach is very picturesque and is one destination sure to offer plenty of privacy.

Where 16 kilometres southeast from Hat Pak Meng, near Trang. Fly to Trang from Bangkok with Thai Airways (http://www.thaiair.com/) and take a ferry from Pak Meng - which also provides connections to Koh Lipe, Koh Muk and Koh Lanta - as well as Langkawi.

Stay Koh Hai offers just a few resorts - adding further to the island's appeal - and even better, none of them are within sight of one another. Koh Ngai Resort (Tel: +66 7520 9924, http://www.kohngairesort.com/) is a very pleasant beachside retreat offering various accommodation options - from family suites to simple fan-cooled rooms.

Eat Guests have little choice but to dine in the resort in which they choose to stay, as movement between resorts is by water only. Koh Hai Resort offers two good options - the Andaman Restaurant and Costa Marina - with Thai seafood the specialty at both.

 

Koh Lanta Yai, Thailand

Koh Lanta, southeast of Phuket, was once a sleepy but substantial island - 30 kilometres long by 10 kilometres wide - home to small fishing communities. Now, trendy resorts are slowly replacing the fleets of fishing boats. But much of the forested areas away from the beaches remain untouched. Koh Lanta is also known for its stunning sunsets - where skies of bright red and golden yellow slip into the sea at dusk.

Where Koh Lanta is situated within the Andaman Sea, southeast of Krabi. The nearest airport is Krabi, with Tiger Airways (http://www.tigerairways.com/) offering direct flights. The most picturesque transfer to Koh Lanta is a one-hour speedboat transfer from the mainland, although during monsoon season - from May to October - only two-hour road transfers are permitted.

Stay Koh Lanta's beaches are located on long sweeping bays and they don't come much better than Ao Kan Tiang at the island's isolated southwest tip, home to Pimalai Resort & Spa (Tel: +66 7560 7999, http://www.pimalai.com/) - set amongst 40 hectares of coastal forests, fronting onto one kilometre of pure, white sand. Both the spa and restaurants at this resort are excellent. Aveson Travel (Tel: 6737 7677, http://www.aveson.com.sg/) is currently offering a special package at Pimalai Resort & Spa. Travel must be completed by December 20 and you'll pay just $688 and $1,288 for three nights in a Deluxe room or Pool Villa respectively, inclusive of Thailand transfers, daily breakfast, one dinner and one THB500 spa voucher.

Eat Try the quirky Same Same But Different (+66 1787 8670) for good Thai food. Or settle down at Pimalai's Rak Talay Beach Bar and order a Singha beer and some som tam - spicy papaya salad - and enjoy life in the slow lane. Spice n' Rice Thai Restaurant and the Seven Seas Wine Bar & Restaurant both offer excellent wines and fusion cuisine, with views of the bay.

 

Kudat Riviera, Sabah

Kudat Riviera is located along Borneo's pristine and unexplored northwestern coastline. The initial 12 Balinese rice-barn villas on half-acre beachfront blocks, featuring private plunge pools, are almost completed. Over time, a spa, restaurants, bars and a huge communal pool will be added. You'll also be able to enjoy a wide range of adventurous activities, such as hang gliding, rock climbing and sailing. Helicopters will be on standby for those seeking indulgent activities such as ocean diving or eco-adventures, in one of Sabah's pristine national parks.

Where Kudat Riviera is located at the tip of Borneo, near Kudat, in the far northwest of Sabah. Travel with Singapore Airlines (http://www.singaporeair.com/) or Malaysia Airlines (http://www.malaysiaairlines.com/) to Kota Kinabalu and then fly onto Kudat with MAS Wings (http://www.maswings.com.my/) - a division of Malaysia Airlines. Small aircraft and helicopters are also available for hire. Alternatively, the road journey from Kota Kinabalu to Kudat is three hours by car or bus.

Stay Kudat Riveriera (Tel: +60 88 249 276, http://www.kudatriviera.com/) is an exclusive retreat boasting individual luxury residences over 10 kilometres of pristine coastline.

Eat Restaurants will soon be developed, in the meantime only limited hawker food is available.

 

Lankayan Island, Sabah

There are few beaches in the region with such fine white sands as this speck in the Sulu Sea. Being 90 minutes by fast boat from Sandakan, it's one of Malaysia's quietest outposts and offers just a few beachfront chalets. Step from one of 16 comfortably appointed beachfront chalets - and two bungalows - out into the shallow turquoise waters and watch black-tip sharks come in for their lunchtime feed. The diving here is very good and this is what attracts most visitors. Whale sharks can be spotted from March to May.

Where Travel with Singapore Airlines (http://www.singaporeair.com/) or Malaysia Airlines (http://www.malaysiaairlines.com/) to Kota Kinabalu and then fly onto Sandakan with Air Asia (http://www.airasia.com/) or MAS Wings (http://www.maswings.com.my/). Lankayan Island is then a 90-minute speedboat ride away.

Stay One island, one resort - Lankayan Island Resort (Tel: +60 89 673 999, http://www.lankayan-island.com/).

Eat Lankayan Island Resort has only one restaurant but meals are wholesome and no one goes hungry. A shaded verandah overlooks the sea with nothing on the horizon - pure bliss.

 

Lombok, Indonesia

Many say Lombok is what Bali was like 20 years ago. While the natural attractions are similar - volcanoes, rice fields, beaches and bays - the culture is very different. Lombok offers a heady holiday mix and The Oberoi is arguably the best accommodation on the island, if not the most architecturally stunning. It's located at Medana Beach within lush, tropical, established gardens. And even if the resort was full, you'd never know it. The luxurious guestrooms are ideal for romance, as there's no reason to step outside and some pavilions even have their own pools surrounded by high walls.

Where Lombok is 65 kilometres east of Bali. SilkAir (http://www.silkair.com/) flies direct three times a week and there are also several flights a day from Bali. The Oberoi is then 28 kilometres or 45 minutes drive from the airport. Boats also operate from Benoa and Padang Bai in Bali, to Lombok.

Stay The Oberoi, Lombok (Tel: +62 370 638 444, http://www.oberoihotels.com/) is the ultimate in luxury and privacy, with just 50 villas and pavilions. Holiday Tours & Travel (Tel: 6238 2899, http://www.holidaytours-sin.com/) is currently offering three days and two nights at The Oberoi, Lombok inclusive of return airfares with Silk Air, airport transfers and daily breakfast, from $599 per person.

Eat Lumbung Restaurant overlooks the pool and seaside and the Tokek Bar is a sunset bar romantics will adore.

 

Sihanoukville, Cambodia

Further on from the main Cambodian port of Sihanoukville is a long expanse of white sand - from Independence to Otres Beaches. In the past 10 years this area of Cambodia has experienced a tourism boom and now most of these beaches are lined with thatched shelters and sun lounges. To the east, Otres Beach is the least developed - although you will find water sports, simple accommodation, a few bars and some restaurants. Sokha Beach is the most developed and features the Sokha Beach Resort (Tel: +855 3493 5999, http://www.sokhahotels.com/). Laze by the pool, drift off to sleep under a shady casuarina tree on the beach, or pamper yourself with a spa treatment and burn off some energy with the myriad of watersport activities offered here.

Where Fly to Phnom Penh with SilkAir (http://www.silkair.com/) or Jet Star (http://www.jetstar.com/). Sihanoukville is then located 230 kilometres southwest of Phnom Penh - four hours by bus. Plans to develop the small airport are underway.

Stay Sokha Beach Resort (Tel: +855 34 935 999, www.sokhahotels.com) offers international standards and has garden and sea rooms, plus suites and villas.

Eat Dine at the resort in Le Chanthou Seafood Restaurant or enjoy a relaxed drink in the Sokha Wine Bar.

Posted Nov 07



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