As Asia rushes blindly into modernity, landlocked Laos with its laid-back lifestyle is a breath of fresh air. Turbulent times Capital attractions Luang Prabang Enjoy sightseeing along Luang Prabang's historic streets, with frequent rests to partake in the delicious Lao coffee, a soothing fruit shake, shopping for hill tribe keepsakes with intricate embroidery, or to relax beside the Mekong River at sunset and enjoy some spicy Lao cuisine, while nature puts on a colourful spectacle. The town's main attraction is its collection of ancient temples. Wat Xieng Thong dates back to 1560 and remained under royal patronage until 1975. Colourful mosaics made from cut glass decorate many exterior walls. And the temple's style is distinctly Lao and very different to many found in neighbouring Thailand. There are also scores of other temples to explore. Travellers have accommodation several choices in the royal town, including the 24-room Maison Souvannaphoum (http://www.coloursofangsana.com/) - once the royal residence of Prince Souvanna Phouna - and the stylishly chic The Aspara (http://www.theaspara.com/). When you arrive at either property you know they're out of the ordinary. Maison Souvannaphoum is managed by Angsana Hotels and Resorts - owned by Banyan Tree - so guests can anticipate the unexpected in a country full of pleasant surprises. While retaining the residence's architectural integrity, the resort features splashes of colour - bright orange being the hue of choice. In fact, each bathroom has a stunning orange perspex wall, incorporating contemporary style within the building's heritage qualities. Relax and indulge yourself with some luxurious pampering at Angsana Spa - offering treatments in air-conditioned tented pavilions within the resort's tropical gardens. A short distance across town - nothing is more than 10 minutes away in Luang Prabang - overlooking the Khan River, The Apsara is a boutique property that's often described as the chicest place in town. Each air-conditioned room in this guesthouse has been decorated with four-poster beds, antique furniture and luxurious teak-lined bathtubs, plus the ultimate in this region for comfort - a hot water shower. While the Maison and The Apsara cater to well-heeled travellers, there's an abundance of guesthouse accommodation in Luang Prabang available to budget travellers, who flock here in droves as part of their Indochinese tour of duty. Simple, clean accommodation is available in any number of 20 or so guesthouses - mostly established in converted homes - from just $US5/night, such as Rattana Guesthouse (http://www.rattana.laopdr.com/). EAT The streetside restaurant at The Apsara features both western and eastern cuisine including four-course set meals from an astonishing $US12. Elephant Blanc at the Maison Souvannaphouma is a delightful space, with alfresco dining by the pool or indoors cooled by ceiling fans. Executive Chef Vanhsay Picknock offers various cuisines but the Lao food is particularly delicious. Try dishes such as keng som pa (sour fish soup), pa ling sousi heng (deep-fried catfish) and kai phad kling (chicken curry). When to go The cool season from November to February is best. March to May is the hot season and best avoided, however Laos is a mountainous country where elevation moderates the heat. December, January and August are peak months so bookings are wise. Getting there Visitors can arrive by air, land or river. There are direct flights to Luang Prabang from Bangkok on Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) and from the capital Vientiane on Lao Aviation (www.laoairlines.com). There are also flights into the country from Siem Reap, Phnom Penh, Kunming, Chiang Mai, Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The main overland crossing is at Friendship Bridge near Nong Khai in Thailand, although there are several others. For something different, journey by river. The main access point for boating down the scenic Mekong River to Luang Prabang is Huay Xai (Lao PDR)/Chiang Khang (Thailand). A journey for lunatics can be done in a matter of hours by speedboat, or for the sane, in two days with an overnight stop at Pak Beng. Getting around Lao Aviation (www.laoairlines.com) operates domestic flights to several destinations, with the main ones being Luang Prabang and Phonsavan. Long distance air-conditioned buses are also an option. Within the cities, travel on "jumbos" - covered, modified motorbikes. Visa ASEAN passport holders do not require a visa. Most other nationalities can now obtain 30-day visas upon arrival. Remember to bring two passport photos and US$30 - the fee may vary for some nationalities). Money matters The local currency is kip (10,000 to $US1) but Thai baht and $US are accepted in most places. Travel professionals Atrium Eco Travel http://www.atriumecotravel.com/ Country Holidays http://www.countryholidays.com.sg/ Eco Adventures http://www.adventures.com.sg/ Fascinating Holidays http://www.fascinating.travel/ Contacts Lao Tourism http://www.tourismlaos.gov/ Ecotourism in Laos www.ecotourismlaos.com Travelfish www.travelfish.org 
David Bowden wanders off the beaten track and discovers a peaceful land like no other.
Since the socialist government relaxed its tourism policy and opened the country's doors, the Lao Peoples' Democratic Republic, or Lao PDR, to give the politically correct name, has become one of Indochina's hottest destinations. Perhaps the draw card is the mystique of the country's isolation, its chequered history, or it could be that an increasing number of today's travellers have more interest in wandering far from Asia's well-trodden tourist trails - rather than hunting down the latest copy handbag. Whatever the reason, like many economically-depressed nations, Laos now welcomes tourists who invigorate the economy with much needed foreign exchange.
The town of Luang Prabang, once home to the nation's royal family, is the jewel in the nation's tourism crown and attracts annually tens of thousands of visitors who come to savour a relaxed pace of life, the former vestiges of royalty, many ancient Buddhist temples, a collection of stylish boutique hotels and a selection of chic restaurants.
The capital Vientiane is the other main tourist destination, but other areas such as Vang Vieng, Pakse, Plain of Jars, The Mekong River and the remote northwest around Nam Ha Pha are becoming increasingly attractive to the more adventurous traveller, attracted by the surprising number of ecotourism options in a country where mountainous terrain means much of the forests remain intact.
Laos has a turbulent history. Centuries ago the Luang Prabang monarchy became so weak it was forced to pay tribute to neighbouring foreign forces until, after attacks in 1887, it accepted French protection. That Gallic influence is evident today in the architecture and fascinating streetscapes. The last king died in 1959 and the subsequent communist uprising ensured the royal family would never rule again. Today the country is home to some 5.6 million people who live in one of the world's poorest economies.
Avoid the temptation to merely transit through the capital - Vientiane - on the way to Luang Prabang. There are several points of interest that warrant at least an overnight stay, including the great one-stop Lao souvenir repository of the Morning Market (Talat Sao). Visitors can buy beautiful Lao silks and cottons - including those from various Lao hill tribes, as well as inexpensive and superb Lao coffee from the Bolaven Plateau.
The capital's flat terrain is best appreciated by climbing the steps of the city's own Arc de Triomphe - Patuxai, situated along a grand boulevard. Make sure you stop to read the descriptive sign at street level. A short "jumbo" - converted motorbike, similar to a tuk tuk - ride up the road is the radiant gold spire of Pha That Luang, the country's most significant national monument.
The premier hotel in town is the Novotel (www.novotel.com), just a short walk to the small city centre. The club floor rooms are superb and go beyond the expectations of most travellers. Complimentary transfers to and from the airport are just one of many services offered and the small pool is an appealing sight after a day's sightseeing.
There are several smart dining establishments in the hotel and in town, although the street food is good - and healthy. Lao cuisine is similar to Thai. For authentic flavours try Tamnak Lao (Tel: 413 562) or Soukvemarn Lao (Tel: 214 441). For a French experience visit Saovaly (Tel: 214 940) and Le Côte D'Azur (Tel: 217 252). The Mekong River is just a short stroll away from the Novotel and many bars and stalls line the riverbank. One is as good as another, but aim to relax with a cocktail by 6pm, to enjoy a colourful sunset.
The former royal town of Luang Prabang has a very different upriver ambience to the capital. Very little has changed in the urban fabric of Luang Prabang over the decades, especially since obtaining World Heritage status in 1995. Rigid adherence to a master plan protects the town from irresponsible development. While various boutique hotels offer smart designer accommodation, the façades of most historic buildings remain intact.
DO Luang Prabang is a stylish retreat where life moves at a very simple pace, as heavy vehicles aren't allowed in the historic precinct. Its compact size also makes it easy to negotiate, either on foot or by bicycle - available for rent from US$1 a day.
Posted Oct 07
