With the advent of cooler climes, David Bowden takes the opportunity to run for the hills…
Before air conditioning, the only respite from South East Asia’s oppressive tropical climate was to get high by seeking out mountainous refuges, cooled by the higher altitude. But the recent drop in temperature throughout the region means these luxurious hill stations are now cooler than ever, reason enough to dig out the winter gear and indulge in scones with clotted cream and jam, or a glass of whiskey by a roaring log fire.
Mountainous locations, such as the Cameron Highlands, Fraser’s Hill, Bukit Larut – formerly Maxwell’s Hill – and the Genting Highlands in Malaysia, plus Dalat, Vietnam; Bogor Indonesia; Pyin U Lwin (Maymyo), Myanmar and Nuwara Eliya, Sri Lanka, are home to the region’s coolest resorts. Not only can you expect a warm welcome from friendly locals, these areas also have an interesting history and offer landscapes resembling distant lands, due to the attempts of colonial settlers to recreate gardens reminiscent of those in their homelands. With the abundance of rose gardens, log fireplaces, cream teas and Tudor-style architecture, you could be holidaying in the English countryside.
Cameron Highlands, Malaysia
The Cameron Highlands are located on a forested plateau famous for tea plantations and flowers, as well as the vegetables and fruits – especially strawberries – served in many highland restaurants. The best thing about this temperate destination is it’s possible to walk in comfort through the gardens and along various trails. This means lots of physical activities such as hiking, golf on the 18-hole course, tennis and cycling are possible and extremely pleasant.
The Tudor-styled bungalows and rose bushes found here are unique to this area of Malaysia. One of the most popular tourist attractions is the BOH Tea Plantation (www.bohtea.com), producer of Malaysia’s household favourite – Cameronian tea. There are many great highland outlets for drinking tea, but the most atmospheric has to be Tea’ria, with its adjoining information centre at the Sungei Palas Plantation just outside of Brinchang.
There are several well known hotels in the highlands such as the Lakehouse (www.lakehouse-cameron.com) and The Smokehouse Hotel and Restaurant (www.thesmokehouse.com.my), but the recently established Cameron Highlands Resort (www.cameronhighlandsresort.com.my) has quickly made its mark as the area’s resort of choice. It has been established in the former Merlin Hotel so offers heritage credibility with a revamped interior focusing on colonial ambience complete with period furniture and interiors. Nothing gets too hectic here. Most guests are content to indulge in cream teas while contemplating dining in either the traditional Dining Room or the open-sided Japanese restaurant, Gonbei. Relax with a nightcap in front of the log fire after dinner.
The delightful hill station of Dalat is situated 1,500 metres above sea level in the central Vietnamese highlands and just five hours drive north of Ho Chi Minh City. There are also daily flights between Ho Chi Minh City and Dalat – Vietnam’s best-known mountain holiday destination and a superb location for a round of golf.
Originally established by the French as a retreat for heat-weary colonial administrators, Dalat is now a popular destination for heat-weary tourists. As it’s a small town of just 30,000 residents, Dalat’s attractions are best discovered on foot. Discover many examples of colonial architecture, a busy market, colourful hill tribe communities and the remnants of the old Crémaillère Railway which once hauled visitors up the steep escarpment.
Located near the town centre is one of Asia’s most picturesque golf courses. The 18-hole championship Dalat Palace course (www.VietnamGolfResorts.com), established in 1922, was Vietnam’s first golf course, originally built for the personal use of the last Emperor – Bao Dai. It fell into disrepair during the Vietnam War and became parkland before its refurbishment.
Discerning travellers should check into the Sofitel Palace Dalat Hotel (www.accor-hotel-vietnam.com) to discover one of Asia’s finest heritage hotels. This refined establishment offers guests the opportunity to appreciate life as it was during the French colonial period. Savour leisurely breakfasts, take a turn around the gardens, relax in the lounge, enjoy a cup of tea by the fire and dress with elegance for dinner, served in Le Rabelais Restaurant. Guestrooms have been faithfully restored to their colonial grandeur, making this the perfect base for exploring Dalat.
Nuwara Eliya (pronounced nu-rel-iya) was the preferred Ceylonese hill station by the British living in Sri Lanka. The remnants of their indulgences still stand, with the charming 52-room St Andrew’s Hotel (www.jetwingeco.com) being the most traditional establishment in town. It’s also within a 7-iron chip of the 18-hole golf course, said to be one of Asia’s best.|
The town itself is surrounded by tea plantations and for those who must indulge, cream teas are plentiful. There’s also a near-derelict horse track that springs to life when Sri Lanka’s social set holiday here during the New Year. Horton Plains and the wonderful escarpment of World’s End are 90 minutes’ drive away and present the perfect environment for long cool walks, bird watching and photography.
Pyin U Lwin (Maymyo), Myanmar
When the British annexed Burma, Pyin U Lwin was renamed Maymyo – or May Town – after a noted British colonel. Now the country is known as Myanmar and Maymyo has reverted to its original name, but many old timers still use the colonial term – as do many tourists.
Just 70 kilometres from the city of Mandalay, the Road to Mandalay continues northeast to the cooler climate of the uplands – 1,070 metres above sea level. It wasn’t just the British who travelled here, but also the workers who accompanied them. As a result there are now many Indian and Nepali descendants in the town. More recently, settlers from China’s Yunnan Province arrive via the famous Burma Road linking China with Myanmar’s Shan State and Lashio.
Pyin U Lwin is small enough to walk around, but it’s hard to resist the miniature stagecoaches pulled by feeble ponies. No one’s quite sure of their origin, but for those looking to recreate days of the American West, this is the place. Attractions include Chinese temples, Shan Markets, the Japanese War Cemetery, mosque, British Golf Club and Christian church, plus Nepali and Sichuan-styled restaurants. The large botanical gardens known as National Kandawgi Gardens surround the Royal Lake and offer rose gardens, an orchid house and walking trails through the natural vegetation.
The preferred place to stay is the old Candacraig Hotel, now officially named Thiri Myaing Hotel (Tel: +95 85 22 483) – although few call it that. This large guesthouse was established in 1906 as a residence for British bachelors from the Bombay Burmah Trading Company, who travelled from Mandalay and Rangoon – now Yangon – to escape the humid lowlands. Built mostly from teak timber extracted from northern Myanmar forests, it features a grand staircase leading to several large guestrooms. Despite a few recent improvements, Candacraig retains much of what the British appreciated almost a century ago. Winter nights can be spent in front of the fireplace, provided guests are prepared to chip in and pay for a bundle of firewood supplied by the hotel.
Bogor, Indonesia
Conveniently located just 60 kilometres from the Indonesian capital of Jakarta is the cool hill township of Bogor. Long known as the country’s seat of power, Bogor was also popular with Indonesia’s Dutch and British colonialists. While only a modest 290 metres above sea level, average temperatures hover around 26 degrees Celsius, making Bogor significantly cooler than Jakarta. In 1745, the Dutch Governor-General built a palace here that became the official residence for subsequent Governor-Generals. Sir Stamford Raffles resided here when he was the British representative in Java and his wife is buried in the palace – now known as the Presidential Palace.
Apart from peering into the palace grounds, the big attractions in Bogor are its soothing weather and the spectacular 87 hectare botanical gardens of Kebun Raya. Initially established by the Dutch, the gardens were honed by the British under the guidance of botanists from London’s Kew Gardens and house more than 3,000 plant species. They are arguably the finest structured gardens of South-East Asia.
Golfing is popular and Klub Golf Bogor Raya has been crafted through montane forest, offering golfers the sensation of being completely surrounded by lush vegetation. Those looking for a more relaxed pace of life should continue eastwards to the refreshingly cool resort township of Puncak Pass at 1,500 metres above sea level. This town is located halfway between Jakarta and Bandung and overlooks mist-covered mountains supporting tea plantations and a variety of other cool temperature crops. Stay at the Puncak Pass Resort (www.puncakpassresort.com), which offers comfortable rooms overlooking farmland and mountain landscapes.
Cameron Highland’s most mysterious visitor
On March 26 1967 the renowned Thai silk entrepreneur Jim Thompson left Moonlight Cottage in the Cameron Highlands for an afternoon stroll in the rainforest, never to be seen again. This year marks the 40th anniversary of his disappearance and there’s sure to be renewed interest in the mystery. The already notorious adventurer disappeared under unusual circumstances and despite an extensive search nothing has been seen of him since. Was he kidnapped by guerillas, murdered by the CIA, or did he stage his own death? Despite being an experienced walker, perhaps he just got lost, his body entombed by the thick jungle.
Books continue to be written about the man and his disappearance. Serious students of history will be fascinated by William Warren’s Jim Thompson – The Unsolved Mystery. Purchase a copy at the Jim Thompson boutique at the Cameron Highlands Resort, settle into a comfortable chair in front of the fireplace and try to solve the mystery yourself.
Posted Feb 07
