David Bowden explores this hidden secret of the Land of Smiles and discovers stylish buys, chic hotels, innovative eats and blissful spas to Thai for.
The first thing you notice about Chiang Mai is how cool it is - literally. With low temperatures and an upping of the hip ante, the transition of northern Thailand from the backpackers' haven of the 70s and 80s to today's 21st-century design-conscious retail and spa retreat is now complete.
Chiang Mai was one of Northern Thailand's first kingdoms - along with Chiang Saen and Sukothai - where over the centuries, Thai and Burmese rulers tussled for control. While many people visualise Chiang Mai as a sleepy backwater, it's actually considered to be Thailand's most livable city. Chiang Mai offers a cosmopolitan feel, but the crowds, traffic, noise and lifestyle is less hectic than Bangkok and life moves at a much slower pace.
Located in the fertile valley of the Ping River at the base of Doi (Mount) Suthep, hippies once descended here to walk the northern hills and learn the culture of the hill tribes. Today, the textiles and handicrafts of these people are on display at Chiang Mai's popular night markets. And while the backpackers still come, a new wave of tourists is finding Northern Thailand equally appealing - attracted by the finer things in life, such as innovative restaurants, chic bars, decadent spa treatments and designer boutiques.
Many Buddhist temples - or wats - dot the landscape. There are more than 300 wats in Chiang Mai alone - many dating from the ancient Lanna Kingdom. Several are worth a visit - even for those with a passing interest in culture. Wat Chedi Luang is the site of the biggest wat in Chiang Mai, measuring over 90 metres in height. Much of it was destroyed in an earthquake in 1545, but it was reconstructed in 1994.
Just off the Super Highway, Wat Chet Yot with its seven-spired square chedi - or stupa -dates back to 1435. Its chedi tower is based on the one at Buddha Gaya in northern India - the site of Buddha's enlightenment. Just next door, the Chiang Mai National Museum houses Lanna works of art, ancient Buddha images and a weapons collection.
Doi Suthep-Pui National Park is the setting for Chiang Mai's most spectacular wat. Located 16 kilometres from the city and overlooking the Ping Valley, this site features ornate golden parasols and is topped with a shimmering central pagoda, bordered by four huge golden umbrellas and Wat Phra That Doi - dating back to 1383. Surrounded by forest, this temple sits 1,700 metres above sea level making it Chiang Mai's most important and visible landmark.
Beyond Wat Phra That Doi is the Phu Ping - or Royal Winter Palace - and the nearby Doi Oui Hmong Tribal Village, an ideal place to appreciate hill tribe culture. Learn more about the various hill tribes at The Tribal Research Institute within Chiang Mai University.
Dining delights
Sampling the local cuisine is one of the greatest joys of visiting Thailand. Culinary experiences "Up Country" are even more rewarding, thanks to the many local delicacies which are accessible and cheap. Local Chiang Mai dishes to try include naem sausages and khao soi noodles. Dinner at Khantoke (Tel: ++66 53 202 993) is popular, as it combines a special meal and a hill tribe dance performance. The name comes from the wooden tray upon which the traditional dishes - such as glutinous rice, Northern Thai-styled curries, larb (spiced minced dishes), sauces and dips - are served.
The Thai food served at Antique House (Tel: +66 53 276 810) is worthy of mention. Relax while you dine on authentic Thai cuisine, within a 100-year old teak mansion filled with antiques and flowers. Another delightful restaurant in Chiang Mai is the Whole Earth Vegetarian Restaurant (Tel: +66 53 282 463), located in a transcendental centre along Si Donchai Road. Galare Food Centre, near the night markets, includes a variety of stalls serving mostly Thai food, Chinese - including Yunnan specialties- and vegetarian Indian meals.
Smart new eateries to try include The Riverside (Tel: +66 53 241 866) and MahaNaga (Tel: +66 53 261 112). On Sundays, visit The Restaurant at The Chedi (Tel: +66 53 253 333) and sample lunch to the sounds of jazz or enjoy a traditional afternoon tea. Mira Terrace at Sofitel Riverside Resort (Tel: +66 53 999 333) has great views of the Ping River. MAZE (Tel: +66 53 894 879) is another new find. This trendy two-storey restaurant serves Thai and western favourites, to tunes spun by a DJ on weekends.
Thais have adopted "café society" with great zeal and innovation. There are some great local coffee concepts, so forget Starbucks and support local growers at Doi Tung, Doi Chaang and Black Canyon, with outlets located throughout the city.
Retail therapy
Chiang Mai is a renowned shopping haven. While the night markets along Chang Khan Road are now the epicentre for the trade of hill tribe products and handicrafts, it was once the road to Sankumpaeng that was lined with artesans selling their wares. But catering to tourists is big business and in many instances, factory outlets are now in evidence.
One of the best shopping routes to follow is the road to Sankampaeng, via Borsarng, travelling east from Chiang Mai. This 15-kilometre stretch of retail paradise is lined with shops selling antiques, celadon ceramics, silverware, umbrellas, jade, wood carvings, lacquerware, silk and hand-made paper products.
Witness the age-old process of making umbrellas at Borsarng Umbrella Village - nine kilometres east of Chiang Mai. You'll find traditional hand-painted paper, cotton and silk umbrellas on sale here. Check out mango wood home décor items at Mount Mango (Tel: +66 53 538 6560) and for Thai silk fashion and interior products, visit Jolie Femme (Tel: +66 53 116 777, http://www.joliefemme.com/).
Pon Art Gallery (Tel: +66 53 338 361) on the Chiang Mai to Sankampaeng road is a series of rambling teak buildings housing a vast collection of "authentic" antiques. Beware - some Thai dealers have perfected the art of creating "instant" antiques so be warned some items may not be the real deal.
Haan Tawai - 14 kilometres from Chiang Mai on Highway 108, on the road to Hang Dong - is one of the north's most famous craft villages and produces handicrafts and furniture. Bamboo ware and pots are two of the hot items at Bua Lai Handicraft (Tel: +66 53 433 219).
The Hill Tribe Products Promotion Centre - near Wat Suan Dok, opposite Chiang Mai University - sells a variety of authentic handicrafts - there's also an have an outlet at the airport. All proceeds go towards supporting the hill tribes.
Central Airport Plaza is a commercial western shopping mall anchored by Robinson's department store and Northern Village - a collection of individual retailers sprawling over two floors. Locally-produced handicrafts, textiles, aromatherapy items and designer interior décor items can be found here. Try Oriental Style (Tel: +66 53 903 638) for fabrics and homeware at bargain prices. Back in the city, Elements (Tel: +66 53 874 277) at 402 Tha Pae Road has an exquisite collection of local and Laotian designer textiles.
Out and about
Choosing the appropriate car rental facility is important. Hertz has several offices in Chiang Mai, with the one located just outside the international airport being most accessible for inbound travellers. The most popular driving route is Chiang Mai to Chiang Dao, via Pai, Mae Hong Song, Khun Yuam and Doi Inthonon.
For those who love exploring caves, head to Chiang Dao - some 70 kilometres north of Chiang Mai on the road to Fang and the Myanmar border. A small rural road branches off the highway from Chiang Mai and leads to these caves and the small resort of Chiang Dao Nest (Tel: +66 53 456 242, http://www.nest.chiangdao.com/) - one of the north's great surprises. Expect comfortable accommodation beneath towering rainforest emergents, a welcome refuge after a delicious meal washed down with a chilled beer or glass of wine. Kids will love running around in these rural surroundings beneath towering limestone hills, punctuated with several famous caves - offering a glimpse of the Thailand of yesterday.
When to go Mountains to the north moderate the intensity of Chiang Mai's lowland climate, bringing relief from the heat in the evenings. The best time to visit is in the cooler months from October through to January, Chiang Mai is hottest from February to May.
Getting around
Fly direct with Tiger Airways (www.tigerairways.com) and Silk Air (http://www.silkair.com/).
Inner Chiang Mai is best explored on foot and Nancy Chandler's Map of Chiang Mai is the essential guide to exploring the city's familiar sights - as well as its oddities. Use it while negotiating public transport - songthaews (converted pick-up trucks), metered taxis or tuk tuks.
Things have changed dramatically over the past decade and there are now good roads in Thailand's northwest, albeit they twist and turn around Mae Hong Song - so drive with caution. Hertz (www.hertz.com.sg) offers excellent service and their airport office is situated close to the entrance of Chiang Mai International Airport.
Stay The design-conscious traveller can seek out any number of smart new hotels. Two set the trend for the city - Sofitel Riverside Resort (www.sofitel.com/asia) and The Chedi (Please do not copy or print this pagePlease do not copy or print this pagewww.ghmhotels.com). Both of these superb properties are situated close to the night markets on the banks of the Ping River and offer excellent spa facilities. For boutique properties with an emphasis on relaxation, also check out RarinJinda Wellness Spa Resort (www.rarinjinda.com) and Ban Sabai Village Resort & Spa (www.ban-sabai.com).
Immerse yourself in the culture of northern Thailand culture at the stunning Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi (http://www.mandarinoriental.com/), where you can take part in beauty, wellness, culinary and wilderness programmes, plus a kid's club with a difference - rice planting is one activity. Spread throughout 60 acres of paddy fields and natural landscapes, the cultural museum and selection of suites, villas and residences all pay homage to Lanna heritage and architecture.
Budget travellers can't go past the well-established Galare Guest House (www.galare.com) and the charming Kaomai Lanna Resort (www.kaomailanna.com) - constructed from former tobacco curing barns.
Contacts Tourism Authority of Thailand (www.tourismthailand.org.sg).
Posted Jun 07
