Michelle Jones-White discovers the thrills, spills and spirit of New Zealand’s South Island.
Long before Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings drew attention to the Land Of The Long White Cloud, New Zealand’s first settlers were pulled to its shores by an intriguing sight. A group of Polynesians travelling by canoe became transfixed by a long, white cloud, hovering over a distant land. At dusk the cloud transformed into a bright light – enabling them to paddle through the night, until they reached their destination. That discovery of New Zealand is now Maori legend. But some believe these explorers from the tropics were simply unfamiliar with snow; that the cloud they saw was the white, snow-capped peaks of New Zealand’s mountains; and the travellers’ guiding light was simply the bright twilight sky, inherent to this part of the world.
Certainly an opportunity to travel to a land which rises to seemingly almost touch the stars at Mount Cook (Aoraki – the cloud piercing mountain) and then retreat to cover itself in the most turquoise of waters at nearby Lake Tekapo, shouldn’t be missed. One of the most stunning natural landscapes in the world, The Land Of The Long White Cloud has much to offer any traveller and is ideally explored by road. But Kiwis never do anything by halves and distances are huge, so a driving tour is best interspersed with internal flights. While both the South and North Islands possess their own intrinsic beauty, for the traveller with limited time, New Zealand’s southern charms present the most diverse travel experience.
If your schedule permits, fly to Wellington and begin your journey by boarding the ferry to Picton. As the vessel heads into the picturesque Marlborough Sounds make sure you venture outdoors for a breathtaking panoramic taste of the majestic landscapes you’re about to experience. Adventurers can opt for a five-day tramping – Kiwi for trekking – and kayaking holiday along a 51-kilometre stretch through the Abel Tasman National Park (www.nelsonnz.com/abeltasman), staying at huts along the way and finishing up at the wilderness beaches of Golden Bay. Awaroa Lodge (www.awaroalodge.co.nz) offers a little more luxury and the charming town of Takaka nearby provides a relaxed retail experience with weekend markets.
If wining and dining is more your style, hire a car or campervan at Picton and drive on to Blenheim to explore the Marlborough wine region just 30 minutes away. Stay at a private cottage in a working vineyard at Herzog Winery (www.herzog.co.nz) – also home to one of the region’s finest restaurants – or Walnut Block Cottages (www.walnutblock.co.nz). When planning a wine tasting tour ensure you include a sampling at Hunter’s (www.hunters.co.nz), Cloudy Bay (www.cloudybay.co.nz), Villa Maria (www.villamaria.co.nz), Wither Hills (www.witherhills.co.nz) and Montana (www.montana.co.nz).
For a fun day trip, visit the World Of Wearable Art & Classic Cars Museum (www.wowcars.co.nz) and call into the Boat Shed Café (www.boatshedcafe.co.nz) overhanging the shoreline at Nelson, for a delicious, steaming plate of New Zealand green-lipped mussels.
CONTACTS
www.interislander.co.nz Ferry from Wellington to Picton.
www.wildernessguides.nz.com Guided three-in-one adventure treks throughout Marlborough Sounds by bike, kayak and foot.
www.destinationmarlborough.com Download a winery tour map and plan your day.
Two hours south of Blenheim is the former whale station town of Kaikoura – now making a living from conserving its marine life. Kids will love the sight and sounds of the burgeoning seal colony located on the north side of town and are sure to enjoy either the whale or dolphin watching tours run by Whale Watch (www.whalewatch.co.nz).
To experience natural, thermal waters – ideal for soothing road-weary muscles – drive inland to Hanmer Springs. Stay at Cheltenham House (www.cheltenham.co.nz) – a traditional bed and breakfast with a Jacuzzi in the garden – within walking distance to the hot springs and dine at The Old Post Office Restaurant (Tel: 315 7461).
Travel onwards to Christchurch, stopping off at Pegasus Bay (www.pegasusbay.com) for lunch along the way. Christchurch is the South Island’s largest city and an abundance of public parks has given it the well-earned moniker of The Garden City. Museums, galleries and The Arts Centre offer a cultural draw, but perhaps the city’s most interesting attraction is it’s the start out point for expeditions to the Antarctic. Both Robert Falcon Scott and Ernest Shackleton set out on their expeditions from the port of Lyttleton and the International Antarctic Centre (www.iceberg.co.nz) not only offers an interactive Antarctic experience for all the family, it also provides base facilities for the official Italian, American and New Zealand Antarctic programmes. Stay overnight at the elegant Charlotte Jane (www.charlotte-jane.co.nz) boutique hotel, or journey on to the historic and extremely picturesque village of Akaroa and rest at Oinako Lodge (www.oinako.co.nz) or the charming Maison de la Mer (www.maisondelamer.co.nz). Located at the heart of an ancient volcano – now a stunning harbour – Akaroa offers colonial architecture, cosy cafes, antiques and handicrafts.
CONTACTS
www.naturallykaikoura.co.nz Get up close and personal with whales and dolphins.
www.hanmersprings.co.nz Natural thermal waters in Alpine country.
www.christchurch.org.nz Tourism information and maps.
www.akaroa.com Extensive tourist information, contacts and walking tour suggestions.
Geraldine, Lake Tekapo & Waimate
South of Christchurch, Geraldine has a superb Vintage Car & Machinery Museum (Tel: 03 693 1006) boys both big and small are sure to enjoy. Venture on to Lake Tekapo home to the historic and oft-photographed Church Of The Good Shepherd – a memorial to the pioneers of Mackenzie country. Wedding ceremonies and monthly church services are still held at this heritage church – built from lakeside stone and oak – which offers a stunning view of the turquoise waters of Lake Tekapo and the Southern Alps beyond. The lake’s vibrant colour is a result of sunlight illuminating “rock flour” – the fine dust of the rocks grounded by Tekapo’s headwaters. Stay at the simple but friendly Moonlight B&B (www.tekapomoonlight.co.nz), where owner Rene – an experienced hiker with astronomy guide – can advise you on the best stargazing opportunities in this area renowned for its celestial delights.
Travel on to Aoraki – Mount Cook, where a wide variety of walking tracks across this 3,754-metre peak tailored for all fitness levels and ranging from 10 minutes to four hours, ensures everyone gets a chance to experience this area’s pristine beauty. Maori legend has it that Aoraki and his three brothers were the sons of Rakinui – the Sky Father. They were on a voyage around Papatuanuku – the Earth Mother – when their canoe became stranded, after striking an ocean reef in the ocean. Aoraki and his brothers climbed on top of their canoe, but the cold south wind froze them, turning them to stone. It’s said their canoe became New Zealand’s South Island, while Aoraki – the tallest of the brothers – became its highest peak and his brothers and their crew the other mountains of the Southern Alps.
To get back on the grape trail, head for the east coast and stay at Te Kiteroa Lodge (www.tekiteroa.com) in Waimate – within Point Bush Estates Winery & Vineyard (www.pointbush.co.nz) – located at the foot of the Hunter Hills, surrounded by vines, olive groves, native bush and the song of Bellbirds. Hosts Gary and Ann Dennison – ex-Singapore expats – can suggest a wide range of tours and activities, from sightseeing, wine tasting and farm visits to walkways, mountain bike trails, horse treks and fishing and hunting – in season. Waimate, is located midway between Christchurch and the historic city of Dunedin and is a quaint Edwardian town famed for its strawberries, raspberries as well as salmon and trout fishing.
CONTACTS
www.earthandsky.co.nz Mount John Observatory is situated within the proposed site for the for the first world heritage national park in the sky.
www.mtcooksalmon.com Discover why New Zealand’s salmon is among the “cleanest” in the world. Kids will enjoy feeding the fish.
www.tekapohelicopters.co.nz Heli-ski at Mount Cook and land on the Fox and Franz Josef glaciers.
www.waimate.com Explore South Canterbury’s diverse farming region.
Queenstown, Arrowtown & Wanaka
Plunging over the side of Queenstown’s 43-metre high Kawarau Bridge isn’t for the fainthearted, but if you’re ever going to give bungy jumping a go, this is the place. Those who prefer their action a little less extreme will enjoy powering down the Shotover River on a jet boat or setting off on a four-wheel drive, cliff-hanger of a tour of Macetown – a gold mining ghost town. Other activities include all terrain vehicles, hang gliding, skydiving, horse riding, river surfing, mountain biking, hiking and “Middle Earth” tours. For a truly memorable experience, fly over The Remarkables mountain range in a light aircraft and land in the pristine wilderness of Milford Sound. For Queenstown’s most exclusive stay, check into Blanket Bay (www.blanketbay.com) – 35 minutes drive outside of town – or try Pencarrow (www.pencarrow.net). While in Queenstown, enjoy silver service dining at Gantleys Restaurant (www.gantleys.co.nz) or a relaxed lunch outdoors at Waitiri Creek (www.waitiricreek.co.nz) vineyard.
On the north side of Queenstown is the luxurious Stoneridge Estate (www.stoneridge.co.nz), close to the historic surrounds of Arrowtown. This quaint town is proud of its gold mining history, but is better known today for its dining and retail options. Travelling on to Cardrona be sure to refuel with a beer at the Cardrona Hotel (www.cardronahotel.co.nz) – before enjoying Queenstown’s premier winter activity and hitting the ski slopes of Coronet Peak and The Remarkables on the Queenstown side, or Cardrona, Treble Cone and Snow Park on the Wanaka side. Ski season generally runs from June until early October and is well organised, however if you’ve skied in Europe, Canada and America, be prepared for shorter runs and take travelling time into consideration – in New Zealand all ski accommodation is off-the-mountain. In summer, the town of Wanaka continues to impress with stunning lake views, natural surrounds and a less crowded ambience than neighbouring Queenstown, just 50 minutes drive away.
CONTACT
www.queenstown-nz.co.nz Excellent information source.
www.bungy.co.nz A J Hackett Bungy – the first, the original, the only bungy jumping experience.
www.shotoverjet.com The only jet boat permitted to career through the Shotover River Canyons.
www.glenorchy.net.nz Take a ride on a Cessna 172 over stunning mountain ranges then cruise Milford Sound and finish with a helicopter landing on the Tutuko glacier.
www.nzski.com Skiing options close to Queenstown.
TRAVEL TOOLS
www.singaporeair.com is the only airline currently flying to New Zealand direct from Singapore. Another option is to fly into Sydney or Melbourne and then onward to New Zealand with Virgin Blue (www.virginblue.com)
www.newzealand.com Official tourism website covering history, Maori mythology, activities, suggested itineraries, maps and a travel planner.
www.accommodationz.co.nz/distances2.html This invaluable tool for navigators calculates the driving distance and fuel required between various destinations in New Zealand.
www.marlboroughwinetours.co.nz ship 12 bottles of wine by air door-to-door for NZ$200 – excluding wine costs and taxes.
www.classicwinetrail.co.nz lists prominent wineries in both the North and South Islands.
i-site Visitors Centres are located at all cities and many major towns and are your best point of contact if you’re booking accommodation on the fly. They have a complete list of all bed and breakfast and hotel accommodation in the immediate vicinity and can often secure great deals for you on the spot.
www.qualmark.co.nz lists accommodation and tourist activities which have been independently tested and rated.
www.jasons.com Bed and breakfast plus boutique hotel options.
Posted May 08
