Hama Ruparel explores India's spiritual side - and discovers a surprising French connection.
If you're feeling frazzled and are seeking a seaside escape to truly unwind, consider Pondicherry in southern India. This enchanting melting pot of experiences offers a glittering emerald ocean merging with a solid blue horizon, the gentle crash of waves to sooth you to sleep and a lazy breeze, which encourages the swaying of the endless coconut palms.
Situated on the Bay of Bengal, 162 kilometres south of Chennai - the nearest metropolis and airport - a trip to Pondicherry is akin to taking a step back in time. Ruled by the French at one time for 300 years, this charming seaside town is a unique blend of old and new. And Pondicherry's French connection is still in evidence today, from the intimate restaurants offering continental cuisine, to right-angled streets bearing Gallic names and the fluent French spoken by the majority of locals - along with Tamil and English. One of India's most enchanting destinations, here you'll find graceful promenades, buzzing street markets and a lively French Quarter together with grand boulevards, elegant houses and beautiful gardens that exude an almost-European aura. This combined with the Tamil culture and an engaging spiritual richness ensures that despite modernisation, this pocket of India retains a unique sense of charm. Whether you're a sun worshipper, fun seeker, are seeking to reignite romance or rediscover inner peace, Pondicherry's diversity offers something for everyone.
The city's rich spiritual origins can be traced back to the legendary Rishi Agastya - an ancient Indian sage - whose mystic spirit found resurrection in the 20th century with the establishment of Sri Aurobindo Ashram (http://www.sriaurobindoashram.org/). The Ashram transformed Pondicherry, healing the resultant scars from invasions by the Dutch and French, as well as the bad blood shed during the many battles between the French and English for territorial rights. The charming atmosphere of the Ashram, once the home and now the resting place of revolutionary-turned-saint, Sri Aurobindo, and his close companion, a Parisian painter revered as The Mother, draws thousands of spiritual seekers from all over the world each year. Its philosophy and activities include the development of art, culture, spirituality and cottage industries, which actually led to the establishment of Auroville (http://www.auroville.org/) - India's first "universal town". Also known as the City of Dawn, this area is symbolic of the freedom of self expression - where talent, creativity and craft are considered manifestations of the voices of the inner-being.
Built on the outskirts of Pondicherry - 10 kilometres from the main city - this unique township was created to celebrate unity in diversity, as a symbol of international understanding. People of all nationalities, cast, creed and religions with a multitude of talents and trades still live here today, in complete harmony. And at the centre of the township is the meditation centre of Matrimandir - an architectural marvel, built like a globe. The Auroville Foundation is engaged in activities such as reforestation, organic agriculture and healthcare. It also produces designer clothes, handmade scented candles, paper, pottery and exquisite French-Indian furniture, plus leather items and sculptures. Auroville designs are a unique combination of local and contemporary elegance - renowned for their distinctive signature-style.
Shop
A shopper's haven, Pondicherry offers boutiques in almost every street while a casual atmosphere adds to the charm. Plaster, papier-mâché and terracotta Pondicherry dolls, known as Puducheri Bommai, and korai mats, made from a species of grass found in the area, make good gifts. The highly-acclaimed fabrics of the Century-old mill are ideal mementos and antiques' stores thrive - but you need to use a discerning eye.
Getting around
Well-preserved heritage buildings feature both French and Tamil architectural styles and the town follows a simple grid-patterned layout. A canal bisects it making for easy navigation, and the French Quarter to the east and the Tamil section to the west can be explored by foot, by far the best way to soak up the soul and unique ambience of Pondicherry - one of India's most unique and charming treasures.
Explore
Arekemedu Famous historical site discovered by the Romans in 200 BC, currently under excavation.
Aayi Mandapam Pondicherry's best known monument, built during the reign of Napoleon III.
Eglise De Sacre Coeur De Jesus Known for its gothic architecture and dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus.
Mansion of Ananda Rangapillai A fine specimen of Indo-French architecture built in 1773.
Promenade Take a walk along the French Quarter's promenade, by the sea.
Historical Buildings The Museum, Pondicherry Municipality building, Chamber of Commerce, Bharathiyar Memorial Museum, Raj Niwas and the old light house on Goubert Avenue.
Churches Notre Dames des Anges - built in 1855 AD in Greco-Roman style - and Church of Capuchians.
Temples Varadaraja Perumal, Manakula Vinayakar and Sri Gokilambal Thirukameshwara temples.
Near Pondicherry...
Gingee Fort One of the few surviving forts in Tamil Nadu.
Holy Temple Towns Kanchipuram, Tiruvannamalai and Chidambaram.
Mamallapuram Discover heritage sculptures and magnificent rock temples.
Mahe Beach Located on the northern tip of Kerala.
Yanam This coastal village is known for its rich mangrove forests and an uninhabited island.
Karaikal Beach Where the Arasalar River reaches into the sea.
Chunnamar Eight kilometres from Pondicherry, this tropical paradise is flanked by a quiet, flowing creek on one side and provides a great outdoors experience. Some resorts offer water-sports such as kayaking, but there's nothing like a ride in a catamaran carved from a wooden log.
Serenity Beach A ten-minute drive to the north of the Pondicherry brings you to these virgin sands, home to Quiet Healing Centre - offering rejuvenating spa therapies.
Stay
From clean, welcoming guesthouses to impressive five-star hotels and resorts, the Pondicherry experience can be easy on the pocket no matter your preference.
A limited number of rooms are available at Sri Aurobindo Ashram, so booking in advance is recommended. Email: bureaucentral@sriaurobindoashram.org.
Hotel De L'Orient (http://www.neemranahotels.com/) is a renovated heritage hotel with French charm, dating back to the 18th century. Other popular historic properties include Hotel de Pondicherry (Tel: 0413 222 7409) and Villa Helena (Tel: 0413 22 6789).
The Promenade (http://www.sarovarhotels.com/) is a luxury boutique hotel - aptly named, as it overlooks the Bay of Bengal. Pondicherry Ashok (http://www.theashokgroup.com/) is also located by the sea.
Ananda Inn (Tel: 0413 20 1978) is 10 minutes away form the beach but boasts a spa offering traditional rejuvenation therapies.
When
Pondicherry is hot and humid most parts of the year; the best time to visit is between November and February. Temperatures vary between 26°C and 38°C. The summer months of May and June are particularly trying with temperatures rising to 40°C. The monsoon season from July to October is followed with winter in November - when seasonal showers brought by the northeast monsoon are not uncommon.
Go
Both Singapore Airlines (http://www.singaporeair.com/) and Jet Airways (http://www.jetairways.com/) fly to Chennai daily, flight time is three and-a-half hours. Tiger Airways (http://www.tigerairways.com/) has recently introduced direct flights several times a week, while Air India (http://www.airindia.com/) flies via either Mumbai or New Delhi. From Chennai, the most scenic route to Pondicherry is a three-hour road journey via the east coast. Buses depart from Chennai every hour and Pondicherry is also accessible via road from Bangalore and Kerala.
Contacts
BOX OUT
Atrium Eco Travel (http://www.atriumecotravel.com/) includes Pondicherry as part of any tour itinerary offered beginning or ending in Chennai. Atrium's 8 Day Cultural Tour covers Chennai, Mahabalipuram, Kanchipuram, Pondicherry, Tanjore, Tiruchirapally and Madurai and is available until September 30 at $1,820 and from October to March at $2,140.
Another Indian hot spot...
The once Portuguese colony of Goa is probably India's best known beach destination. However flights from Singapore are a little tricky and you may find yourself at a loose end in Mumbai airport overnight. If you're keen to see for yourself why celebs such as Kate Moss and Brad Pitt rave about this part of India check out the following:
Stay Vivenda dos Palhacos (http://www.vivendagoa.com/), Nilaya Hermitage (http://www.nilahermitage.com/) or rent your own five-star beach house or tent at Elsewhere (http://www.aseaescape.com/).
Shop Wednesday flea market alongside Anjuna beach.
Try Get to grips with "downward dog" at Purple Valley Yoga Retreat (http://www.yogagoa.com/).
Going Places
Jet Set: Summer Specials
Travel deals and steals
Make the most out of these hot offers and get packing!
CITY
London
The Metropolitan's (www.como.bz) Honey I Brought the Kids package starts from £499 per night for two interconnecting rooms. The kids' room is stocked with fresh fruit, milkshakes, cookies, child-size bathrobes, a "children's box of delights" and a Playstation 2, while parents receive a much-needed bottle of champagne. A London Duck Tour for all the family is also included.
Bangkok
Conduct business in style with the Metropolitan Bangkok's (http://www.como.bz/). Best Business Deal package. Special rates start at $259 for an oversized Metropolitan room until September 30. Includes a welcome Martini in the chic Met Bar and a daily credit of $46.
RETREAT
Bali
From September 9 to 15, Judy Krupp hosts a yoga retreat at Uma Ubud in Bali. Five hours of yoga - along with Uma Ubud's wellness programmes - will leave you feeling relaxed and refreshed in no time. Prices start from $3,285.
Turks & Caicos Islands
Idyllic Parrot Cay (http://www.como.bz/) allows you to get away from it all with water sports, complimentary yoga classes and the award-winning COMO Shambhala Retreat. Book seven nights until October 31 and you'll pay for only six.
BEACH
Hoi An, Vietnam
The all-villa Nam Hai (www.ghmhotels.com) is offering a three night stay for the price of two nights, or a four night stay for the price of three, before August 31. Book the latter offer and you'll also receive a free upgrade to a spacious pool villa. Tel: +84 5109 4000, Email: namhai@ghmhotels.com.
Maldives
Until September 30, One & Only Kanuhura (www.oneandonlyresorts.com) - situated on the picturesque Maldivian island of Kanuhura - is offering one night free if you book three or four nights, or two free nights if you book five. Activities include scuba diving, fishing, water sports, tennis, squash and a kids' club. Tel: +960 662 0044, Email: info@oneandonlykanuhura.com.mv.
WINE
Margaret River, Western Australia
Situated in a soothing rural location, luxurious Moondance Lodge (www.moondancelodge.com) is offering mid-week specials from Mondays to Thursdays until August 31. Situated in Yallingup, the lodge is an ideal base for tours of Western Australia's premier wineries. You'll receive three nights accommodation for the price of two in a deluxe spa suite, inclusive of daily breakfast, a king-size bed, flat screen TV and a Jacuzzi with a view of the garden. Tel: +61 89750 1777, Email: stay@moondancelodge.com.
Adelaide, South Australia
Try a Tour de Foodies (http://www.southaustralia.com.sg/) package with up to five nights' accommodation and a choice of seven different wine, culinary, spa and golf experiences where you'll meet people in the wine industry to gain some inside knowledge.
Thailand & Laos
If you're after something a bit more local, try the new Eastern & Oriental Express (www.orient-express.com) journey from north-eastern Thailand to Laos, from October 23. A three-night itinerary takes you through the Khmer ruins at Phimai and offers a unique wine tasting experience at the New Latitude vineyards of Khao Yai. If you can't leave Singapore and have just a few hours to spare, sample this magical experience with an elegant four-course dinner inclusive of wines on September 21 or 22 from 7pm or 9:15pm for just $380 per person, or $350 for bookings received before August 15. Tel: 6392 3500.
GOLF
Bintan, Indonesia
Club Med Ria Bintan (www.clubmed.com.sg) is offering a premium, all-inclusive golf package inclusive of return ferry transfers, welcome drinks, twin-sharing accommodation in a Superior room, nightly entertainment, one round of 18-hole golf and more. Until August 31 adults pay $445 and children aged eight to 11 years pay $360. During September and October, adults pay $338 and children $329.
Chiang Mai, Thailand
Stay at The Chedi, Chiang Mai (www.ghmhotels.com) until September 30 and pay THB50,100 per person for four nights and five days, or THB67,800 for six nights and seven days, inclusive of your choice of one of three golf courses, daily breakfast, accommodation, welcome drinks, aromatherapy massages and limousine transfers.
Tsunami Alert System
If you travel frequently to coastal regions, consider subscribing to the Tsunami Alarm System (www.tsunami-alarm-system.com/en) for peace of mind. This alarm system had a 100 percent accuracy rate in 2006 and sends a warning within 15 minutes of a strong underwater quake to subscribers' mobile phones, allowing them to seek safety in plenty of time. Special Offer: Readers of The Finder receive a 30 percent discount off the monthly subscription of $20, or annual subscription of just $29.95. Tel: 6842 4413.
Posted Aug 07
