Hidden Gems: Jaisalmer, Rohet Garh, Cochin, Deogarh & Kerala
Elizabeth Grady wanders far from India’s bustling metropolises to discover this ancient land’s most intriguing holiday destinations.
JAISALMER
Why go The Golden City of Jaisalmer in Rajasthan perches on the edge of the Thar Desert, captivating all who visit this exotic Indian outpost. Each evening, the romantic fortress is bathed in a golden hue, as the sun sets on its magnificent sandstone buildings. Lose yourself in a maze of alleyways and let the romance of this ancient trading town transport you to another time.
To do The focal point of the walled city is the 12th century fort, which stands at an imposing 80 metres. Ancient havelis (private residences) feature famed carvings and murals facing narrow pathways. Built by wealthy merchants in the 19th century, many of these houses and shops are still in use today. The three most impressive to visit are the Patwa-ki, Nathmal-ki and Salim Singh-ki. A highlight of any trip to Jaisalmer is a camel safari into the desert. Watch the sun set over sand dunes, with only the sound of the camels’ tinkling bells to keep you company, as you gently lumber through the sands.
Stay & eat For sheer romance you can’t go past Hotel Killa Bhawan (www.killabhawan.com). Built into the wall of the fort, each room is decorated in a traditional style. There are only seven individually decorated rooms available at the incredible Garh Jaisal Hotel (www.garhjaisal.com). Trio (Tel: 25 2733) restaurant serves both Indian and Continental food in a stunning rooftop setting overlooking the fort, while musicians serenade.
Getting there Fly to Jodhpur from Delhi, before hiring a car and driver or taking train and bus services.
PUSHKAR
Why go Be entranced by the magic and mysticism of Pushkar. This small town centres on Pushkar Lake and is one of India’s most holy Hindu pilgrimage sites. Many visitors plan on visiting Pushkar for a couple of days but end up staying longer as the peaceful setting is renowned for soothing many a tired traveller’s soul.
To do Relax by the milky lake and watch the pilgrims bathe in the sacred waters. Visit the famous Brahma temple – reputed to be one of the only Brahma temples in the world. The highlight of any trip to Pushkar is the Camel Fair – usually held in November. Camel traders, pilgrims and mystics converge, creating a carnival atmosphere. Brightly coloured turbans, swirling dancers and musicians bring the desert landscape to life, resulting in a spectacle not to be missed.
Stay & eat Hotel Pushkar Palace (www.pushkarpalace.com) has prime position by the lake. While Jagat Singh Palace Hotel (Tel: 277 2953) overlooks the surrounding mountains and has been built in traditional Rajhastani style. Restaurants in Pushkar are strictly vegetarian. Sunset Café is perched right on the ghats (riverbank) and is the perfect place to watch evening wash over the lake.
Getting there Pushkar is 11 kilometres from the town of Ajmer, which is two hours drive from Jaipur airport.
ROHET GRAH
Why go A stay in this ancestral home is an experience not to be missed. Both Bruce Chatwin and William Dalrymple stayed here while writing their novels. And Madonna and Guy Ritchie once celebrated the advent of a new year at the garh (fort).
To do This heritage hotel is a study in peace and tranquillity. Take tea on the lawn watching the peacocks strut around or, for the more adventurous, try a jeep safari into the surrounding countryside – where you can experience first hand India’s rural life. For those with a passion for decadence, why not treat yourself to a royal picnic. Guests can also choose to stay at the wilderness camp. Six luxury tents are appointed with teak furniture, exquisite rugs, permanent insect netting and attached bathrooms with modern amenities – ensuring a camping experience fit for a Maharajah. And for horse enthusiasts, Rohet Garh has one of the best Marwari stables in the country.
Stay & eat Relax in one of the hotel’s 34 individually-decorated rooms, or choose to rough it in style at the luxury wilderness camp.
Getting there Rohet Garh (www.rohetgarh.com) is a 45- minute drive from Jodhpur airport and is located on the main highway between Jodhpur and Udaipur.
COCHIN (KOCHI)
Why go Cochin in Kerala is a hybrid mix of all that is India, where 500-year old Portuguese houses stand cheek-by-jowl with mosques and a 16th century Jewish synagogue. Wander the narrow cobbled streets, browse for antiques and take in the beautiful yellow-washed buildings. In the evenings, the shores of the harbour come alive with traditional Chinese – the area’s first traders – fishing nets swaying like sails in the wind.
To do Fort Cochin is steeped in a multicultural history and best explored on foot, to appreciate the relaxed and unique ambience of this delightful quarter of Cochin. St Francis, India’s oldest European church – built in 1503 – is well worth visiting. Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama was buried here before being moved to Lisbon. And the Mattancherry Palace – also known as the Dutch Palace – actually built in 1555 by the Portuguese and given to the Rajah of Cochin, is another must-see. Feel your senses awaken with the aromatic scent of cinnamon and cardamom as you reach Jew Town – the centre of the Kochi spice trade and noted for its thriving artistic community; you’ll find many of the cafes have galleries attached. Cochin is also renowned for its Kathakali shows – dramatised performances involving music, singing, elaborate costumes and makeup, usually based on Hindu epics.
Stay & eat The Malabar House (www.malabarhouse.com) is one of the finest places to stay in all of Cochin and is ideal for a romantic getaway. This restored colonial villa is ideally located in Fort Cochin, opposite St Francis’s church. Each room is decorated with antiques and curios from the region. And in the evening the garden becomes a romantic, candlit haven where you can enjoy sumptuous Keralan cuisine while watching unobtrusive entertainment. Ideal for that romantic getaway!
Getting there Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeair.com) and Silk Air (www.silkair.com) fly direct to Cochin from Singapore. While Jet Airways (www.jetairways.com) flies via Mumbai. A myriad of other flight options are available from most major Indian cities.
Why go Deogarh Mahal (www.deogarhmahal.com) – abode of the gods – is the place to visit if you’ve ever wanted to stay in a 17th century palace. Part of this impressive castle is still a family home and its sheer size and opulence will take even the most seasoned travellers’ breath away.
To do Wander through the local bazaar – a great place to find textiles, scarves and shawls. Take a jeep ride into the surrounding countryside, or travel in style in one of the hotel’s luxury vintage cars.
Horse riding and picnics are also available. For those with sore muscles, pamper yourself with an Ayurvedic massage. Or for the ultimate getaway spend a night or two at Fort Seeghh Sagar, which has been converted into a luxury villa situated in the middle of a lake. Accessible only by boat or a small bridge, this island retreat located just five kilometres from the main castle is fully staffed with attendants waiting to mix you an evening cocktail and generally cater to your every whim. The ultimate in tranquillity and a stay with a difference.
Stay & eat The hotel has fifty rooms – including three royal suites – each decorated to represent a different era of Indian history.
Getting there Deogarh Mahal is located between the main cities of Udaipur and Jodhpur.
MUST DO
- Treat yourself to a night at Delhi’s Imperial Hotel (www.theimperialindia.com) – an outstanding homage to a bygone era.
- There’s no finer tribute to love than the Taj Mahal. This UNESCO world heritage site should not be missed.
- Another world heritage site worth visiting is the temples of Khajuraho.
- The Golden Temple in Amritsar is one of the most beautiful temples in the world and is the most important Sikh shrine in India.
CONTACTS
INSPIRING READS
Get in the mood to explore India with one of these great reads…
Holy Cow: An Indian Adventure Sarah Macdonald
Shantaram Gregory David Roberts
Ghandi An Autobiography Mohandas Karamchand (Mahatma) Gandhi
Travelers’ Tales India: True Stories James O’Reilly & Larry Habegger
City of Djinns: A Year in Delhi William Dalrymple
Eat, Pray, Love Elizabeth Gilbert
Posted Sep 08
