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Spellbinding Morocco

For the ultimate in exotic travel, LYNN FRIEDA suggests a Moroccan adventure - sure to tempt and delight the senses.

WHY GO A crossroads between Africa, old Europe and the culture of Islam, Morocco has attracted travellers in search of the exotic for centuries. From the medieval medina (old city) of Marrakesh, to the ochre-coloured Kasbahs of the sub-Sahara, Morocco is a magical journey through time. It's also a culinary adventure - a place where eating is not only a way of life, but also a celebration of rich cultural traditions.

TO DO One of the best ways to experience Morocco is to start in Marrakesh, winding your way through the labyrinth of alleys and souqs of the old city. At the colossal market square of Djemaa el-Fna you'll find everything from outdoor food stalls to snake charmers, musicians and even sorcerers. For a visit to the main souq, book a guide - as the market is vast. For the brave, enter from Rue Souq Smarrine and have fun "getting lost" in the twisting lanes. Watch artisans at work and find everything from local crafts and spices to souvenirs and the freshest local fruits and vegetables.
            The late 16th century Palais el-Badi is Marrakesh's most famous palace and is located just south of Djemaa el-Fna. Take a stroll from Ali ben Youssef mosque to The Tanneries, where you'll be given a tour of how leather goods are made. Visit in the morning when the dyes are at their most brilliant but beware of the smell. The pungent mixture of pigeon poop, acids and cow urine can be rather overpowering!
             The Jardin Majorelle and Museum of Islamic Art, which is housed in a beautiful blue villa, contains an exquisite collection of Moroccan treasures including carpets and ceramics.
          Take a day trip to the Atlantic seaside town of Essaouira where white-washed houses with blue painted shutters and doors and outdoor cafes give a relaxed Mediterranean vibe.

EAT It's hard to beat the riads (traditional townhouses), which offer local delights amidst a serene ambience. One of the most traditional is Dar Marjana (www.darmarjanamarrakech.com), where chefs serve a feast of classic Moroccan lamb tagine with funky cocktails of mahia, or fig liqueur. The evening includes a lively show of music and belly dancers.
            Yacout (www.yacout.net) is a Marrakesh institution, where aperitifs are served on the rooftop overlooking the medina and dinner consists of Moroccan specialties such as pigeon seasoned with cinnamon. For a gastronomic experience, try La Villa des Orangers (www.villadesorangers.com).
          Djemaa el-Fna is surrounded by cafes and open air market stalls, tempting you to try authentic flavour such as snails on skewers, at bargain prices.

STAY Within the medina walls, there's also a slew of riads (traditional townhouses), restored to their former glory. Riad El Cadi (www.riyadelcadi.com) is comprised of eight historic houses decorated in a vibrant local style, surrounding a maze of patios. For a taste of 20th century design, check into Riad Malika (www.riadmalika.com), which houses a private collection of furniture collectibles dating back to the 1930s and has a patio swimming pool.
          Following a massive three-year renovation, The illustrious La Mamounia (www.mamounia.com) is due to reopen in September 2010. Built in 1923, it's attracted all manner of visitors from Winston Churchill to Alfred Hitchcock, who used it as a backdrop in his film The Man Who Knew Too Much.

GETTING THERE Fly to Marrakesh with Virgin Atlantic (www.virgin-atlantic.com) via London or Madrid. Or with Air France (www.airfrance.com) and Royal Air Maroc (www.royalairmaroc.com) via Paris and Casablanca.

WHEN TO GO March and June and August to October.

Posted Feb 2010



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