Discover The Philippines: Manila, Baguio, Cordillera, Banaue & golfing

There's more to The Philippines than the bright lights of Makati. This ecologically diverse republic is home to cool mountain retreats, world heritage sites, golfers' greens and some of the world's most stunning beaches.

Often overlooked, there are many good reasons to visit the Philippines - an archipelago of more than 7,100 islands. Its capital, Manila, is a city on the move - thanks to improved transportation, which has helped ease its notorious traffic. And while many visit Manila for its history or a spot of retail therapy this vibrant city is best left to the end of your Filipino adventure. To experience the real heart of the Philippines, head north through the main island's central cordillera to the mountains of Luzon, or to the outlying islands and sandy beaches of Boracay.

Chilled out Baguio
Four hour's drive north of Manila is Baguio - a cool mountain location with walking trails sheltered by towering pine trees and strawberry fields where you can pick your own berries. Golf is another good reason to make the journey to Baguio and the 18-hole Baguio Country Club (www.bcc.com.ph) course at Camp John Hayes is where many affluent Filipinos tee off.  Located at 1,700 metres above sea level, a round of golf here is much more pleasant than in the humid lowlands. Baguio's luxe accommodation is The Manor Hotel (www.cjhhotels.com), located adjacent to the golf course. Facilities here are superb and an in-room massage is the perfect way to relax after a round of golf, or a refreshing mountain walk.

Mountainous Cordillera
Venturing further north from Baguio into Luzon's mountainous Central Cordillera is a path less travelled, but one that will appeal to intrepid travellers eager to head into the rugged hills and admire their scenic beauty. From Baguio, it's possible to loop to Sagada, then onto the famous rice terraces of Banaue before heading back to Manila. But be warned, this is a long journey with periods of between six to 10 hours of driving, so don't start if road travel isn't for you. While the journey is picturesque, with various stops along the way, there's no other option but to drive, as there are no airports in the Philippines' mountainous interior.
          Sagada has a reputation with city-folk as a rural retreat, but it can become quite crowded during local holidays. It's also well known to intrepid backpackers - who journey here for the cool mountain trails, limestone caves, rice terraces and river rapids. 
          Ancient burial ceremonies - where bodies were placed in carved wooden coffins, then suspended on the sides of limestone cave walls - were practiced by the once-animistic residents. Most guides will lead you to a cave with 30 carved wooden coffins stacked high, but it pays to venture further to neighbouring Sumaguing Cave, which has a series of beautiful limestone pools just 30-minutes climb deep inside.
          There are several walks around the small town, with some strenuous treks into the surrounding mountains and leisurely trails through the rice fields lining the valleys. Accommodation in this remote location is limited and very basic, but recent renovations at St Joseph's Inn (Tel: +6374 443 5644) have made the most of this guesthouse's premier location and additions include private cottages which sleep up to eight people. Several intimate restaurants in town serve both international favourites and local delicacies - don't miss the locally-grown coffee.

Banaue's rice terraces
From Sagada, it's a four-hour drive to Banaue, mostly along narrow dirt roads. The valley walls along the journey are lined with impressive steep rice and vegetable terraces atop volcanic slopes. In Banaue, the View Point is the best place to appreciate the beauty of the terraces - often referred to as the unofficial eighth wonder of the world. Despite being one of the Philippine's most publicised tourist attractions, the rice terraces of Banaue are special in that few tourists take the effort to make the 10-hour road journey from Manila. For trips to some of the more remote and picturesque terraces, jeepney tours can be arranged.

Manila's historic heart
During the battle for Manila at the end of World War II, much of Intramuros - the former Spanish fort near downtown Manila - was destroyed. Some of the 16th century buildings have been restored and Intramuros is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The main attractions are Fort Santiago and St Augustin Church, located along cobble-stoned streets with the walled settlement. Casa Manila Museum located in an old mansion is your first pit stop, for an overview of this historic area. The five-kilometre long walled township of Intramuros covers 64 hectares, but most of the main attractions are within walking distance of each other and can be reached by foot or horse-drawn carriage.
          The Spanish landed in Intramuros in 1571 and erected Fort Santiago - considered one of the finest examples of a medieval fortress outside Europe. With the outbreak of the Spanish-American War in 1898, the Americans seized control of the Philippines and remained in control until WWII, when Japanese soldiers arrived. In 1945 the Americans returned to liberate the city and the Philippines became an independent nation shortly thereafter.

Downtown Manila
For many visitors, Makati district showcases modern Manila with all that appeals - shopping, dining, drinking and entertainment. The Greenbelt is an area filled with restaurants, shops, cinemas and cafés. Relax here after shopping and join the locals - known for partying well into the evening.
          Naturally, Manila is a great place to sample Filipino food. Try the traditional Filipino turo turo stalls and sample tasty hawker food on Roxas Boulevard, alongside Manila Bay. The capital also offers a host of international taste sensations and in the evenings, waterfront restaurants and cafés offers cool sea breezes blowing in from the bay. Stay at Traders Hotel (www.shangri-la.com) or Makati Shangri-La (www.shangri-la.com).

Historic Greens
Get into the swing at Club Intramuros (www.golfingphilippines.com) which surrounds the historic fort. Narrow fairways lined with ancient stone walls weave their way through what was once the moat and golfers can play 18 holes on a challenging but short course, which has the advantage of location - as it's close to most city hotels. Several lagoons provide challenging conditions and while the par 66 course looks easy, it can prove a test of one's short game with such water hazards, plus out-of-bounds areas. Superb night golfing facilities are a bonus. 

GETTING THERE Cebu Pacific Air (www.cebupacificair.com) flies to Manila several times daily. To avoid traffic, take the 00:40 departure and arrive at 04:05 to begin the drive to Baguio. Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeair.com) also flies direct. Manila departure tax: P750 (S$45).
WHEN TO GO Dry season runs from December to June, with March the peak month for travel due to lower humidity. Avoid July to November as monsoon season often brings typhoons.
CONTACT Philippine Tourism Office (Tel: 6738 7165, www.wowphilippines.com.sg)

Text & Images: David Bowden

Posted Sept 09