Behind the gates of the Istana

Rarely open to the public, Singapore’s “palace” is perhaps one of the country’s best kept secrets.

Located right in the heart of Orchard Road, next to Plaza Singapura, the Istana – the official residence of Singapore’s President – is guarded around the clock and rarely opens its doors to the public. But on May 1, this iconic landmark welcomes visitors keen to learn more about this historic site.

A SENSE OF HISTORY
The grounds of the Istana were formerly part of Charles Princep's clove and nutmeg plantation. This extensive property covered three hills – Mounts Caroline, Sophia and Emily – named after the three Princep sisters. In 1867 the land was divided and sold, with the colonial government purchasing around 40 hectares of Mount Caroline to build a residence for the then Governor, Sir Harry Ord. Lady Ord laid the foundation stone in 1868 and Government House was completed in 1869 – just in time for the first VIP guest, the Duke of Edinburgh, which is how the driveway leading up the hill to the house cam to be named Edinburgh Road.

Designed by Colonial Engineer Major John McNair – who had just completed the gothic St Andrew's Cathedral – Government House, as it was then known, was designed in the classical Palladian tradition. Anglo-Indian and tropical Malay elements of louvered windows and panelled doors were surrounded by wide verandahs – typical of the colonial architecture of that time. The whole project – including land, building and furniture imported from England – cost just $160,000. Considered an extravagant sum in those days, today it wouldn’t even buy you a studio apartment within a stone’s throw of Changi – let alone Orchard Road! Over the years this majestic compound has been the official residence of 21 governors. But when Singapore became self-governed in 1959, it became known as Istana Negara – meaning State Palace in Malay – and was used as the official residence of the President of the Republic of Singapore.

Within the grounds are three main buildings – Sri Temasek, Istana Villa and the Lodge.  Set within one of the most beautiful gardens in Singapore, the houses are surrounded by a variety of fauna – Yellow Flame, Kapok and Saraca trees, palms and some of the original clove and nutmeg trees from Charles Princep’s original plantation. There’s a charming Japanese Garden and, on the Gun Terrace, a Japanese Cannon captured in Burma during WWII and gifted by Lord Louis Mountbatten. On the left side of the entrance’s driveway is a nine-hole golf course, where many foreign dignitaries have played while staying as guests at the Istana Villa. Former guests have included Chinese statesman Deng Xiao Peng, US President George Bush, the former president of Indonesia President Suharto and former Prime Minister of Malaysia Dr Mahathir.

The Military Guard Room is home to 20 guards who perform their duties for a month at a time. Changing of the Guards takes place in the evening of the first Sunday of every month and is based on the Changing of the Guards ceremony at London’s Buckingham Palace. Two guard commanders lead 36 guards in a rifle drill and march from Clemenceau Avenue to the Main Gate, to the beat of a military band.

VISITING THE ISTANA
Since 1960, the grounds of the Istana have been open to the public for just a few days every year – Chinese New Year, Hari Raya, Deepavali and May Day (May 1). You can visit anytime from 8:30am to 6pm. Current President S R Nathan will usually tour the grounds in the afternoon and there will be performances by school bands throughout the day. Entry is $1 for non-Singaporean citizens and an additional $2 to visit the Istana building, with all proceeds donated to charity. Do remember to check The Straits Times in case of changes to the opening days and times.

TOP TIPS

• Visit the Istana early in the day to avoid the heat and queues.
•  There’s a security check at the gate so don’t carry too many bags.
• Wear sunscreen, modest clothing and comfortable shoes, and bring an umbrella.
• Drinks are available for purchase from stalls set up in the garden.

VISIT THE QUEEN
See if you can discover the Istana’s “secret garden”, towards the right of the main building. There you’ll find a marble statue of Queen Victoria, shaded by a bower of flowers. Although Her Majesty was once kept in storage at the Istana, she now reigns supreme in this peaceful garden. She did, however, require some gentle “rejuvenation” – can you spot her nose job?

If you or your visitors would like to learn more about the real Lion City, join one of Heritage Guide Geraldene Lowe's famous tours exploring Chinatown, Tiong Bahru, the Singapore River, Lion City churches and other historical and interesting areas of Singapore. Contact Geraldene at 6737 5250 or Diana Chua at 9489 1999 and email geraldenestours@hotmail.com to find out more. A cost of $25 covers temple donations and snacks with any further proceeds donated to charity.

UPCOMING TOURS

May 6, 9:15am-12pm     Telok Ayer – The Old Coastline of Singapore

May 12, 2:15pm-5pm     Historical Churches of Singapore

Posted on April 07