Discover the joys of a road trip, as David Bowden heads north on Malaysia’s North-South Highway through Johor to the Thai border – and Phuket beyond.
Checklist
Before making a move, ensure you:
- Do the mandatory car checks.
- Have all necessary documents – car registration and insurance, and your passport – to hand.
- Purchase a good map and guide such as the Globetrotter Road Atlas of Malaysia, published by New Holland Publishers, UK. This gem has up-to-date maps, as well as useful information on the major attractions along the main roads and byways.
Road rules
Despite Singapore and Malaysia having similar road rules to the UK and Australia, they are interpreted slightly differently. However, gone are the days of blatant disregard for the Malaysian and Thai highway codes. Authorities now have ways and means of tracking down those who flaunt the law and you may be denied access to Malaysia should you have outstanding traffic fines.
The main thing to know when heading out of Singapore is the speed limit on Malaysia’s highways is 110 kilometres an hour. The police use radars to check motorists speed and be warned, these could be set up many kilometres before motorists are pulled over. There’s a notorious downhill mountainous stretch north of Kuala Kangsar which is 80 kilometres an hour where it’s essential to use the footbrake –and even your handbrake – to stay within the speed limit.
Malaysia’s main highway is a tollway. At various entry and exit points there are toll gates where charges range from RM1 to RM5 and must be made in cash, or stored credit at electric tolls for speedy access. Singapore drivers can purchase top-up electronic cards at toll booths, but cash is still the easiest way – despite sometimes being a slower method of payment. Always keep a total of RM20 in both note and coin denominations handy, to avoid delays.
Road signs in Malaysia are depicted in both Bahasa Malaysia and English, with main roads reasonably well sign-posted. Signs indicating tourist attractions are brown and white, but it’s always helpful to know where you’re heading by keeping an eye on the various exits.
Courtesy dictates you keep left when not overtaking along the mostly three-lane highway. Some drivers don’t always indicate their intention to change lanes, so it’s best to drive with caution. Always expect the unexpected on Malaysian roads.
Regular rehat (toilet rests) and R&R – food, toilets and petrol – outlets are available at regular intervals along Malaysia’s highway.
The breakdown service on Malaysia’s main highway is efficient and there are phones connected to emergency services at regular intervals. Should you break down, pull off the road as far as possible, turn your hazard lights on and place emergency signs at the rear and front of your vehicle. The highway operates an efficient emergency breakdown service, called Ronda and the AAM 24-hour breakdown service (Tel: +603 2161 0808) helps for emergencies on other roads.
With so few long-distance roads to actually drive on in Singapore, there’s a degree of pent-up frustration for many motorists living in the Lion City. But fear not, Malaysia has thousands of kilometres of good roads just waiting to be explored. To drive non-stop along the highway from Singapore to Phuket takes almost 20 hours, but with so much to see you need at least a week to enjoy overnight stays along the way. Here’s a suggested itinerary to get your motor running…
Melaka has long been a favourite destination of Singaporeans seeking a quick getaway. Take either the Singapore-Johor causeway and pay a toll of $1.20, or the less congested second crossing from Tuas into Malaysia and pay $4.60. Head north to the Ayer Keroh exit and drive into Melaka city centre via secondary roads. The town centre is a rabbit-warren of roads, so be diligent.
DO Make a pit-stop at the Portuguese fishing village just south of the historic centre to dine on delicious Portuguese-inspired cuisine. See Sumatran rhinos at Melaka Zoo and go for forest walks in the Hutan Lipur. Or get in touch with your cultural side at one of several museums – both the Museum of Everlasting Beauty and the Maritime Museum are worth exploring.
STAY Renaissance Melaka (Tel: +606 284 8888, www.renaissancehotels.com) has great views of the historic city from the Club Floor, Hotel Puri Melaka (Tel: +606 282 5588, www.hotelpuri.com) offers comfortable boutique accommodation in a historic mansion. The “new” Majestic Hotel (Tel: +606 282 2455, www.majesticmalacca.com) is a historic property which has just been tastefully renovated.
Capital distractions
Drive north to the new administrative capital of Putrajaya and Cyberjaya, just south of Kuala Lumpur.
DO A visit to this area provides great insight to the indulgences of Malaysia’s growth and development. The grand boulevards, Islamic-inspired government buildings, bridges, lakes and botanical gardens need to be seen to be believed.
STAY Cyberview Lodge (Tel: +603 8312 7000, www.cyberview-lodge.com) offers a tropical setting surrounded by the lavish buildings of Putrajaya. Being Cyberjaya, each guest room is fitted with a computer and the Italian Restaurant – La Cascata – has many faithful Italian dishes. The kids may not want to leave, so plan on two days rest and indulge in some pampering at Sembunyi Spa. Seremban with its Minangkabau architecture or the seaside resort of Port Dickson are alternative places to stay.
Cool Camerons
To stay stress-free, bypass the bustle of KL. Head north via Shah Alam, getting onto the Klang Valley Expressway which connects to the North-South Highway, for the three-hour drive north to the Cameron Highlands.
DO This highway passes the rounded limestone hills for which this part of the world is famous. At Tapah, 145 kilometres north of KL, leave the highway at Exit 132 and take the narrow, winding trunk road to the Cameron Highlands – look for the brown and white directional sign. Drivers need to exercise caution on this 60-kilometre stretch of road, as it’s narrow, with many blind corners and steep drops. Trucks use this route with little regard for other road users and the occasional landslide can also complicate matters. Relax, slow down and enjoy the lush rainforest scenery. Keep an eye out for various settlements of Malaysia’s indigenous people – the Orang Asli – along the way. The Iskandar Falls are also worth viewing. Once you’ve arrived, visit the Boh Tea Plantation strawberry farms and rose gardens, play golf in the cool mountain air or enjoy a forest walk.
STAY The Cameron Highlands are decidedly cooler than the lowlands and to find European-style accommodation complete with Tudor architecture and a roaring log fire is not unusual. The preferred addresses are The Lakehouse (Tel: +605 495 6152, www.lakehouse-cameron.com), Cameron Highlands Resort (Tel: +605 491 1100, www.cameronhighlandsresort.com) and The Smokehouse (Tel: +605 491 1215, www.thesmokehouse.com.my). All serve specialty Devonshire teas and English fare.
A new road from the Cameron Highlands to Simpang Pulai connects to the North-South Highway and Ipoh, ensuring you don’t have to backtrack down the mountain to Tapah.
DO Historic Ipoh has many old buildings and streetscapes with the old Railway Station being a great place to start a pedestrian tour of the historic area, centered on the Padang. Check out the nearby FMS Bar with its cowboy saloon ambience. Ipoh is also well known for its superb selection of food – mostly available in hawker stalls or Chinese restaurants. Make sure you visit the stalls to the south of the city to sample delicious, sweet pomelo.
STAY A recent addition to Ipoh’s intimate dining and boutique accommodation scene is Indulgence (Tel: +605 255 7051, www.indulgencerestaurant.com). Offering creative Western cuisine, an international wine list and six, plush, themed all-suite boutique accommodation options, you’ll have to pinch yourself to believe you’re still in Ipoh.
A royal welcome
A short drive north of Ipoh is the turn-off to Kuala Kangsar – the Perak royal town with its grand mosques, palaces and colonial buildings. Few tourists venture here, so you can be assured of having the town – located on the banks of the Perak River – to yourself. The main attractions are easy to locate – you can’t miss the onion-shaped domes of the Ubudiah Mosque. Nearby, the distinctive yellow, black and white former palace is now a royal museum and a beautiful building to photograph. Closer to town is the Malay College and a rather unusual structure which was once a pavilion from where the sultan viewed polo matches.
Visit the Thaleban
Rejoin the highway and drive north to Butterworth. Here you have the option of visiting the island state of Penang and its wealth of historic buildings in Georgetown or continuing north. Motorists can catch one of the old car ferries to travel across the harbour or use the bridge – where you’ll pay a toll of RM7 for travelling to Penang and zero for returning to the mainland.
STAY In Penang, no building is more famous than the Eastern and Oriental Hotel (Tel: +604 222 2000, www.e-o-hotel.com).
An alternative to visiting Penang is to continue north along the freeway, past the turn-off to Alor Star and turn left at Changlun for another highway all the way to the Perlis capital of Kangar. For those who want to travel across to Langkawi, continue onto the passenger ferry at Kuala Perlis.
An interesting back road is the one from Kangar to Kaki Bukit where you can travel across a small border into Thailand. The scenery on this mountain road is very impressive, as is the small village located at the end of Gua Kelam. Just before the border – only operational during daylight hours – you’ll come across the very pleasant surrounds of the Perlis State Park, which has an informative visitors’ centre and some excellent forest trails.
But the big attraction in these parts is the Thaleban – a very scenic national park just inside the Thai border. This natural paradise is home to some beautiful limestone hills, a small lake and some very comfortable – and competitively priced – forest cabins. A small restaurant serves Thai food and chilled Singha beer – all you need for a relaxing stay.
Hello Hat Yai
Thaleban is about 40 kilometres south of Satun and from there, it’s just one hour to Hat Yai. This southern railhead is a place people either love or hate. Hat Yai has experienced security problems over the past few years, though at present the situation is relatively settled.
DO Apart from being a transit point for those travelling by train, Hat Yai is a shopping destination beloved by Malaysians eager to snap up a bargain. Prices are cheap, the food is great and there are some fun pubs in addition to good hotels and large shopping malls.
STAY Novotel Central Sukhontha Hotel Hat Yai (Tel: +66 7435 2222, www.accorhotels.com/asia) towers above the city centre and offers standard rooms or apartments which are substantially bigger than most hotel rooms. Decorated in a more homely style, the apartments feature a lounge area and kitchenette.
Driving conditions in Thailand are not that much different to Malaysia, although at 33 Thai Baht a litre, the petrol is more expensive. Heavy vehicles are known to rule the road in this part of the world, so it’s best to give them some latitude. The road to Phuket turns west at Phattalung where it becomes mountainous and circuitous until Trang. And while there are beaches near Trang, those around Krabi are a better option for those looking for a seaside holiday.
DO Enjoy a bit of beach bliss. Krabi Town is located along the river a little inland from the main beach of Ao Nang. No longer a sleepy seaside resort town due to the new international airport, Krabi’s beaches have nonetheless remained idyllic.
STAY Seaside accommodation ranges from simple chalets to five-star deluxe. If your budget permits, stay at Rayavadee Resort (Tel: +66 75 620 740, www.rayavadee.com) located in a coconut estate below towering limestone cliffs. Another option for families is Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort (Tel: +66 75 628 000, www.starwoodhotels.com). For the ultimate in seclusion, Pimalai Resort & Spa (Tel: +66 75 607 999, www.pimalai.com) is a peaceful retreat on Koh Lanta Yai, one of Krabi’s most southern islands. This resort is only accessible by land via a public car ferry from May to October, at other times you’d need to leave your car at Bahuahin pier and take a speedboat transfer.
Phuket paradise
From Krabi, the road continues to Phuket. You’ll be glad you brought your car as it’s a surprisingly large island and you’ll need a set of wheels to see all it has to offer.
DO Selecting the right beach is important, as places such as Patong and Kata are very busy and crowded, while others including Nai Yang and Kamala are a lot less developed. Whichever beach you choose for your final pit-stop, Phuket is an ideal place to soak up the sun for a few days, before contemplating the journey home.
STAY Le Meridien Phuket Beach Resort (Tel: +6676 370 100, www.lemeridien.com), Hilton Phuket Arcadia Resort & Spa (Tel: +66 76 396 433, www.hilton.com) and JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa (Tel: +66 76 338 000, www.marriott.com) are good for families. Singles and couples may better enjoy Twinpalms Phuket (+66 76 316 500, www.twinpalms-phuket.com), The Chedi Phuket (Tel: +66 76 324 017, www.ghmhotels.com), Mom Tri’s Villa Royale (Tel: +66 76 333 569, www.villaroyalephuket.com), Indigo Pearl (+66 76 327 006, www.indigo-pearl.com) and Layalina Hotel (Tel: +66 76 385 944, www.layalinahotel.com).
Posted March 08
